Morris Minor Owners Club

Can I set engine in with new mounts ok without removing the mount holders from chassis. Find it a bit of a pain to hold couple of bottom nuts behind stabiliser bar.
Might be easier to put dab of weld on them if it’s a must to take them off.

You don't need to remove the metal brackets
Here is a picture of someone installing the engine put the rubbers in when in position but still on lift.

if you are removing the engine with the front panel still in place I seem to remember one does need removing, but not if it's done as the above picture.

Thanks unfortunately I still have grill in place ,
Bolts on brackets are free enough it’s just the arm getting a spanner on to hold below. Thank you.

Guys just persevered and got one off so should make it easier to fit engine and new mounts. Had to use gentle tap on spanner to hold head of bolt on the award one , only problem is I went out for walk around car and lifted spanner’s and got it off but someone is not happy as was wearing my Sunday clothes so in dog house again.
PS PLEASE ADVISE I am putting 2 new gear box mounts on gear box while engine out /the cross member is easy enough bolts are free but not had proper look is the rear gearbox mount easy to fit is it just a u shape bracket or how’s it done.
Thanks.

It's a pair of mounts that bolt to the gearbox case on one side and into slots in the crossmember on the other its all a bit fiddly as access to the crossmember side is not easy but nothing too difficult.

Thanks I bought those 2 , is there another mount further back as said have not had chance to get in .
Appreciate you answering,
Stevie G
Mermancdi.

The gearbox rubber mounts are fitted to metal brackets that are handed. The metal brackets must be fitted to their respective sides otherwise the gearbox will sit too far back.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/gearb ... nd-p830957

Thank you I will take note of which is which on car ( did not know that thanks )

Phil says "The metal brackets must be fitted to their respective sides otherwise the gearbox will sit too far back." Well, I'm loath to cross swords with m'Learned Friend but I think if you get the gearbox supports the wrong way round you'll find the fan v close to the radiator. At least that is how I've explained the gap between my fan and rad being only half an inch since I changed the engine a few years ago.
Must get it sorted . . . .

MikeNash wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 6:03 pm Phil says "The metal brackets must be fitted to their respective sides otherwise the gearbox will sit too far back." Well, I'm loath to cross swords with m'Learned Friend but I think if you get the gearbox supports the wrong way round you'll find the fan v close to the radiator. At least that is how I've explained the gap between my fan and rad being only half an inch since I changed the engine a few years ago.
Must get it sorted . . . .

How does the gearbox mounting move the engine closer to the radiator unless the engine mountings are also wrong?

Well, whatever the effect is, I can confirm it is possible to mix the brackets and cause a problem as this happened to me once. But.......I can't remember what problem was caused as it happened so long ago! I don't think I could get something lined up properly and it took a while to figure it all out. So, yep, make sure they are correctly fitted.

BMC Wksp manual AKD530, Section FFF illustration FFE2 shows that the metal mount (packing (item No: 41 & 42))) bracket has an offset to the front of the car.
If the packing bracket is affixed on the wrong side of the gearbox casing the gearbox casing will be moved back relative to the gearbox cross member.
The engine mount towers are handed but can be changed from side to side if required for example the fitting of a 1275cc Maestro engine with the rear crankshaft lip seal which requires the engine to be moved forward approx. 3/4".

I assume you are talking about the brackets but the actual rubber mounts are same

The brackets - yes.
The rubber mounts are not handed.

Can the we plate with 4 suds just at back of gearbox just above driveshaft connecting, can I drop this plate off and reseal as might be we tear of oil. Sorry 2 photos still learning.

You can remove the plate secured by the four bolts and after cleaning the gasket faces refit with a new paper gasket.
There is no need to use after market sealant just smear general purpose grease on the gasket faces and offer up.

Thank you was not sure if anything would fall out lol.

Other strange thing on changing linkage on the hooked threaded bar going to clutch arm there was a nut on front and one rear of arm ie I thought both nuts would been to rear with second one a locker. Also the spring was missing.
I am right I hope both nuts go behind and new spring I am fitting takes slack out of the clutch arm.
Thanks again. While I am here while replacing gearbox stability wire does oil ever leak at that plate if so is it ok to remove and reseal. Just there’s a dampness round there although may be coming from Speedo connection which I have new seal for. Just want to sort these things while engines out and oils all drained from gearbox. I bought new gear box bush’s but on inspection the ones in it are not cracked so wondering if it’s worth putting new ones in or should I while engine out might be easier done now. Sorry for questions and thank you for your patience and advice.