Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi, haven't been on here for quite a long time. I finally "finished" my 10 yr+ Traveller restoration last summer, but although it performed very well on a few test runs the clutch failed on the first trip out with my wife. The ignominy of arriving home on a breakdown truck Could have been the extra weight of the picnic hamper and tartan rug...

So I've left it in the garage until I picked up enough enthusiasm to start again, which will be in the next couple of weeks. The engine and box are both 1275 Midget, no significant tuning, with original flywheel and a mechanical linkage using Declan's kit. I used an NOS QH drive plate, having read disparaging comments about the quality of replacements available at the time, and probably (my memory isn't perfect) the cover from the Midget engine. The release bearing was renewed, and a suitable fork sourced based on advice here. All worked well initially, but the failure was quite rapid, almost total loss of drive to the gearbox within a few miles of first noticing it slipping.

Until I dismantle it I won't know the cause of the failure, there are some oil drips at the bottom of the bellhousing so not impossible that there has been some oil contamination which I'll have to deal with. I will replace the plate and the cover as a matter of course, so I'm looking for advice as to a reliable make or supplier. I might also need to ask on the MG forums, but I'm starting in the best place!

Mark

Have you checked that the clutch has free clearance?
It may be that the clutch has bedded in and the free clearance lost.
Check the clearance first before doing anything.

Thanks Phil. When the problem occurred I found that the free play was almost non existent, and I'm fairly sure I set it correctly on assembly. Unfortunately resetting the free play didn't cure the problem. Could this suggest that the plate has somehow disintegrated? I will do as you suggest and recheck before dismantling.

The most common clutch kits appear to be B*** & B***, but I am still finding a lot of adverse comments as to the quality of these. Phil May lists a reasonably priced clutch kit - I wonder who these are manufactured by?

Clutches can fail in different ways, but if I'm reading correctly, you're getting lots of clutch slip, so the engine is revving but the car is not moving in proportion, if at all? Does this apply equally in all gears? If you look under the car, is the propshaft turning and does it increase in speed with the engine revs? ASre there are odd noises coming from anywhere? I've not had any problems with B&B of late.

Yes, lots of slip, no other odd noises. I've a major garage clearing operation before I can look at the propshaft, but the car will go forward and reverse, although not up my steep drive, so I think I can rule out half shaft or diff issues. It was working ok in all gears the day it failed, but got slower and slower on hills with increasing engine revs.

Your experience with B&B very useful, thanks.

Hi Mark ,if it ends up with you replacing clutch cover and plate I can recommend precisionclutch.co.uk
they are a small family business specialising in all types of clutch refurbishment to OEM spec .very efficient and friendly service
Also Heathrow Transmission now based in Chichester have a eBay shop ,uprated clutch kit for 1275 engine with roller release bearing if believe this was developed in conjunction with the Goodwood A30 A40 racing guys as Heathrow Transmission build their gearboxes, again stacks of knowledge and adverse to China sourced components
hope above helps

.

Thanks, useful advice. I rebuilt the gearbox with parts from Heathrow Transmissions.

Thought my clutch was gone and turned put to be a leaky cylinder instead. Also dripping oil on to the clutch bottom.

It cannot be a hydraulic leak as the clutch operation is mechanical.
The problem in my opinion is either no clutch clearance or excessive oil getting onto the clutch assy.
The oil could be coming from the gearbox via the first motion shaft (have you checked the gearbox oil level) or via the rear scroll (is the engine oil usage excessive?).
Grasping at straws - the rear engine plate could be cracked between the oil pump aperture and the rear main aperture. allowing oil to escape and pass to the bell housing and then to and over the clutch assy.
The 1275cc Midget rear engine plate is prone to cracking unfortunately.

I'd got the rear scroll and gearbox shaft down as potential culprits, but a cracked engine plate is an interesting addition to the list. I'll report back in a few weeks when I get the opportunity to get the engine out.

Here is a cracked 1275cc Midget rear engine plate for sale on 'e' bay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276278570504 ... R8rg7Oi2Yw

Before taking anything appart I'd check through the other hole in the trans that there is actualy a clearance between the release bearing and the fingers of the clutch, something in the linkage could be bottoming out.