Morris Minor Owners Club

As I have now just about given up on my project after 3 years I have question.Before the engine was rebuilt it decided to start blowing out oil from the breather which now has a pipe to the rocker as too much oil was blowing out.Niw the engine is rebuilt it is doing the same thing.When driving at full go the oil pressure is 55 .When the engine is slowing to a stop the oil pressure is 25 then back to 55 when off again.There is also some oil loss at the engine rear at the clutch.I was advised there is no seal there to change to stop that leak.Anyone whst on earth is happening.

Oil pressure, that's normal, higher pressure when the oil is cold ( thicker) , and higher pressure when the pump ( engine) is running faster...

As for oil loss due to poor crankcase breathing..that's a longer subject.

John ;-)

I thought we had been round and round this with your engine before? You were advised that the engine breathing was not connected correctly.

What is the current set up with your engine breather system? Can you post photographs of the engine bay please?

If the engine breathing is still wrong the engine will continue to leak oil.



Stephen

Let us know who rebuilt the engine, so we can avoid them !!

Have put the breather pipe direct to the rocker cover as blowing too much oil to go into the manifold.

Classiccars wrote: ↑Fri Oct 13, 2023 1:21 pm Have put the breather pipe direct to the rocker cover as blowing too much oil to go into the manifold.

Yes but that means the engine isn’t breathing at all. You can’t connect the tappet chest breather to the rocker cover. In fact, with a tappet chest breather there should not be a breather type rocker cover. Does the oil separator chimney have stainless steel wool inside it? It needs that to separate oil from fumes.

The breather pipe does not go directly to the manifold either. It goes to a PCV valve or to a breather type carburettor.

Stephen

Hi yes I put the wire wool on to it hoping that would solve but no.This is why I have given up as too much oil coming from the breather to put it to a valve.

Our rebuilt engine (by myself) also leaked quite a bit I'd blown through the breather can on the tappet chest and it seemed to pass air OK, but after cutting it open, finding it was pretty choked up and fitting a new gauze (1/2 a pan scourer) we now have nowhere near as much of an oil leak (no drips, still looks oily under there nut that may be historic).

The hose from our breather goes into the back of the air cleaner with the small hole in the pipe fitting drilled out to 6mm.

Classiccars wrote: ↑Fri Oct 13, 2023 5:44 pm Hi yes I put the wire wool on to it hoping that would solve but no.This is why I have given up as too much oil coming from the breather to put it to a valve.

Is this the vehicle you advertised for sale here last month ?

It sounds like your “rebuilt” engine has more blow-by than the Reeperbahn in Hamburg.

Yes it is the same car.I am going for one last try and extend a breather from the pipe I put yo the rocker upwards to give a breather and see if most of the oil goes to the rocker and air cones up and out.

As I am advised there is no oil seal to change at the rear of my 1275 engine.Would there be another reason for the leak or at least is there a gasket for the engine rear to the clutch bell.housing please.

If you have a 1275cc engine fitted with a 1275cc Midget rear engine plate there is a good chance that the plate is cracked between the oil pump and the aperture for the rear main. This is a well known problem and I have experience of the rear plate cracking.
If the 1275cc engine has a modified 1098cc rear engine plate then the possibility of the rear plate cracking increases considerably.
There is a gasket between the rear engine plate and the block which can fail and let oil from the oil pump get into the bellhousing.

You need to separate the engine from the gearbox, it’s the only way to get to the bottom of your clutch and leak issues. Forget the rebuilt engine thing, something is wrong.

I am still convinced that the engine breathing needs to be correct before worrying about oil leaks. The engine may not leak oil at all if the breathing is sorted out. We have been through all of this before.......

Stephen

I am as said going to introduce a breather to see if that helps.But still refer to my question on gaskets.

Further to my breather and oil leak issues.I have reinstalled a breather as advised.unconventional l as it is it seem to work as no oil pumping over the engine now.Just the leak between the engine rear and clutch .May put a new clutch in if nobody buys here .Insuring there is a hole under the vlutch oncase of oil ingress.As I asked before is there a gasket between the 1275 engine rear and the Sierra clutch that I need please.

So you have joined the tappet chest oil separator to a breather rocker cover and run a black rubber pipe up in the air? This is just venting to atmosphere and is not how it is supposed to be. You need the black pipe connected to engine vacuum via a PCV valve.

The information you asked for regarding gaskets was given in my post:
viewtopic.php?p=693541#p693541
Item No: 39 in the following link is the gasket referred too and located between the block and the rear engine plate:-
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-m ... 58-66.html
To reiterate - there is no gasket fitted between the rear of the back engine plate and the Ford clutch.

Thank you Phil and sorry I did not see that post.As for the breather it appears to work and you are of course correct on the pipe needing to go to a valve.But as there is no oil leak now fingers crossed I don't care about joining up I can leave that for someone else to do if they want.I will try again to adjust the clutch and if mo luck replace the clutch parts and plate if needs be.Can I ask if I need the plate you advise may be broken is there somewhere I can get another on the clutch change please.