Morris Minor Owners Club

The original Engine Tie-Rod, as the Workshop Manual calls it, has the following entry in the BMC Manual, Sect AA.37

......fitted between the cylinder head and dash panel, is obtainable under Part No. AJA5054.
The engine anchor bracket is secured below the right-hand rear cylinder head stud nut after fitting the lengthened stud provided.

From that entry, I think it a reasonable assumption that kit AJA5054 included the required replacement stud...
I looked up the contents of kit AJA5054 in the Parts List, AKD3541, to get the part number of the stud.
Everything is listed except the Stud!! Basil's stud clearly wasn't replaced when the engine and/or the steady was fitted, so the stud isn't even up flush with the top of the nut, as can be seen here: .
Was there a lengthened stud, or was it all make believe on the part of the Workshop Manual??

I've found some images online clearly showing a longer stud, but actually the longer stud is in all the positions

What's the consensus out there?

If Basil has a (9 MA) or 10MA engine the stud is shown on Plate A10 of the parts list as item 7 Stud cylinder head medium pt No.51K 254 - 1 off the same part number for both engines ......

Taupe

The stud holding the engine steady bar to the head is longer and should be longer.
I suspect that the longer head stud ended up in other positions because persons were unaware about the longer stud being required to be used for the engine steady. There is very little noticeable difference in stud lengths.
The stud is listed in BMC Parts List Pt No: AKD559 as either 51K244 or 51K254.

Thanks for that guys, most helpful, as always.
I realise now I was looking at the wrong illustrations, I was looking at the Head drawings, not the cylinder block.

When I was looking at the interweb earlier, I found some engines where they were like mine and some where all the studs on show were considerably taller. Like this: I'll go and search for the right stud.

Incidentally, it often comes up about the fitting at the engine end being the wrong way up in many cases. When I was searching this afternoon, I realised the illustration of the assembly in the part list is the wrong orientation...

If you enlarge the picture above - the top of the studs appear to have dimples indicating that they are 'A' Plus studs.
The length of a 'A' Plus short engine stud (fitted & above the top of the block) is around 5mm longer than a short non 'A' Plus engine stud (fitted and above the top of the block).
The cylinder head nuts are also 'A' Plus which have a incorporated flange. The flanged nuts are 10mm overall height including incorporated flange.
The engine steady bar should be horizontal and at right angles to the end brackets. This can lead to having to fit the tie bar head bracket in its best position which may be up or down. There is no right way to fit the head end bracket especially if the taller 1275cc engine is fitted.

Thanks for that insight Phil, every days a school day, even after after almost 6 years of having my Minor.

Enlargement of your picture shows top of your stud look as if it been damaged, perhaps the top of stud has some material missing or is it just an illusion?

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 11:09 am Enlargement of your picture shows top of your stud look as if it been damaged, perhaps the top of stud has some material missing or is it just an illusion?

Just an illusion....

philthehill wrote: ↑Sat Jul 15, 2023 8:04 pm If you enlarge the picture above - the top of the studs appear to have dimples indicating that they are 'A' Plus studs

Actually all the external studs have the dimple on Basil's engine (I've not taken the cover off to check the others), but there's no flange on the nuts.
So over the past few years Phil has noticed 'Cooper S type forged rockers', and now 'A Plus' Studs; while I found it's got a duplex chain...
I wonder what else is not bog standard.
Perhaps all just because it's a Gold Seal engine, so a bit of a 'made up on the spot' build??
(There's traces of the gold under the green...)
.

Made me lookat my 1098 goldseal, no dimples but steady brackes has plain nut with thread above and others flange nuts.
Aren't your flange nuts on other studs, they appear too be in picture or are they flat washers.
Interesting how much variance you find after many years of them being tinkered with before you take ownership.

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 4:35 pm Made me lookat my 1098 goldseal, no dimples but steady brackes has plain nut with thread above and others flange nuts.
Aren't your flange nuts on other studs, they appear too be in picture or are they flat washers.
Interesting how much variance you find after many years of them being tinkered with before you take ownership.
20230716_162226.jpg

So much so. I was at a classic car show today. I managed to find another 1969 and a 1970 (my car is 1969). Even though the owner maintained that his car definitely had the original engine, the breather system was different to mine. I know mine does have the original engine due to what the Heritage Certificate says and how long I've had the car. Out of maybe a dozen or more Minor owners nobody had ever seen a PCV valve and thought it was hocus pocus. My car has always had one.

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 4:35 pm

I think yours and mine are both plain simply nuts with washers under. Flange nuts usually have a very distinct flaring of the metal.

Ask a silly question get a silly answer but that nut isn't just loose is it?

Edit: no it's clearly a stud that's too short

Here is mine:

geoberni wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 4:47 pm

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 4:35 pm

I think yours and mine are both plain simply nuts with washers under. Flange nuts usually have a very distinct flaring of the metal.
flange nut.JPG

Yes I think you're correct nuts and flat washers, I don't think it will make too much difference on yours but you could always use a shallower nut.

I was just thinking about refitting the engine after the clutch change when I had a moment of inspiration... looking closely at the head studs & nuts along the top, I realised where the 'longer' short stud is....
. .
Now it's just going to be a question of how easily it'll come out.

Ah is that why it has a oops I typed a naughty word instead of a dimple?
Well spotted