Morris Minor Owners Club

Long time lurker, hitting retirement and wanting to use Meggy more. Got ourselves a place in Norfolk too and have a yearning to take her down there too. Up to now the 55 convertable (built) just lives in the garage except for exceptionally nice days when she gets a run out ( if the weather man even mentions the possibility of rain....) and im thinking this winter the project is to make her a more useable classic but that means more comfort on long journeys for the Mehm sahib.
Know theres a load of upgrades out there but I dont want to lose too much of the original charm what would the esteemed members consider a good buy? I definitely need less bumps and a better chance at stopping I think..... Which makes the better difference, replacement with standard or some of these fancy uprgardes.
Im quite happy to hold the traffic up and admire the view...
cheers
loadie

I have a later convertible (1969). This was my first car from age 17 and my only car for quite a few years. Now it is a second car but it still goes out in the Winter, at night and if necessary in the rain. My other car is modern and very powerful.

I too am reluctant to lose originality but I have made concessions on a number of things in order to improve safety.

My modifications are:

1) Fitting a hazard light switch (and carrying a warning triangle in the boot)
2) Electronic ignition, an electronic version of the SU fuel pump and an electronic RB106 regulator. Points based equipment can be troublesome in the cold and damp of Winter.
3) LED headlamp bulbs (these are the type that are a direct swap for a halogen bulb with no additional wiring)
4) Switching to silicone brake fluid (after a total brake system rebuild). Silicone fluid is not hygroscopic so seized wheel cylinders are no longer an issue.
5) Modern radial tyres

All of the above could be switched back if wanted. I have NOT changed from the original POSITIVE earth.

I have also had modern inertia reel seatbelts installed front and rear.

My essential maintenance to improve drivability, comfort and safety has been:

1) A complete replacement of the entire braking system keeping to original drum brakes (which in the case of my later car already had larger drums than yours)
2) Completely rebuilding the entire wiper system; wiper motor, rack, wheel boxes etc.
3) Rebuilding the heater motor, new heater matrix, pipes etc.

This was done so as to keep original specifications as much as possible but have optimal function of the equipment.

So you could consider some minor modifications/additions combined with ensuring that original equipment is in first class order. My personal view is that a lot of people rush to change things saying, for instance, "Minor drum brakes are rubbish I need disc brakes" when in fact what they are saying is "my very poorly maintained and worn out drum brakes are rubbish". Ditto wanting alternators instead of dynamos etc etc etc.

Stephen

I would add to the list good quality stop tail leds bulbs. The difference is quite something. You won't notice it, but other road users will see you.

If you car is bumpy I would change the damper oil. It is often over looked and sae30 gives an improvement in my mind, but it depends if you are after a firmer or softer ride.

mowogg wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 5:57 pm I would add to the list good quality stop tail leds bulbs. The difference is quite something. You won't notice it, but other road users will see you.

If you car is bumpy I would change the damper oil. It is often over looked and sae30 gives an improvement in my mind, but it depends if you are after a firmer or softer ride.

Good point. I have those too and it’s a big difference

good suggestions I'll have to look into writing a shopping list

"LED headlamp bulbs (these are the type that are a direct swap for a halogen bulb with no additional wiring)"
And illegal in a reflector light unit.
However, I have done most of the others. Still retain the old regulator box and no hazzards.

Having just replaced a full set of front cylinders, I do like the idea of the silicone brake fluid to eliminate seizing brake cylinders. Is it just the cost of the silicone fluid that puts most people off?

olonas wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2023 12:12 pm "LED headlamp bulbs (these are the type that are a direct swap for a halogen bulb with no additional wiring)"
And illegal in a reflector light unit.

Perhaps you'd care to double check that statement.....

Extract from current mot test manual
"A ‘light source’ means any bulb, LED or other means of emitting light."
As long as it complies with beam pattern requirements


https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspect ... -equipment


Previous LED rule was withdrawn
https://www.gov.uk/government/publicati ... onversions

Thanks for all the tips, although im not thinking after dark at any point. its purely top down sunshine driving. Got the dampers off to change the oils and they flushing some through now although there seems to be aboslutely no resistence in the back ones (now i know they empty and i know the top and bottom bolts are out) but i would expect to feel some resistance wouldnt i ??

If the dampers are empty of fluid there will be no resistance felt at the arm.

After a good faff they full again and it’s almost a sports car !!! Is there a way to calibrate the speedo? Replaced the cable so no longer got that bouncing all over the place but the satnav says it’s about 10pm low….

Loadie wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2023 2:23 pm Replaced the cable so no longer got that bouncing all over the place but the satnav says it’s about 10pm low….

Is that 10% low, ie reading 54/55 when you're doing 60mph? How are you checking this, on your phone map/GPS?

Well assuming you're meaning in top gear when the gearbox ratio is 1:1, the first question has to be 'is everything as it originally was?' ie wheel size & Diff?
What tyres have you got on it?
10% isn't a big error, although Speedo normally over-read to give a bit of a safety margin.

Sorry for typo 10mph ( it was actually a spellcheck as it just tried to change it again dangnabbit )
As in round the industrial estate it says I’m doing 25 mph when the phone app saying 36mph…
And I know my other car is a 1967 Land Rover but I know it was more than 25

OK, that's cleared that up.

The speedo should be a percentage rise, due to the way the drag cup speedo works.
For anyone who doesn't know, the movement of the Needle on the Speedo is caused by a spinning magnetic field.
Basically, the cable from the gearbox spins a magnet, the magnetic field rotating tries to drag a metal cup around with it, which is held back by a spring.
https://www.howacarworks.com/accessorie ... eedo-works

A phone app isn't that accurate on short distances, especially if there are large buildings to bounce the GPS signal around. The best thing to do is follow another car doing a set speed on an open road for at least 1/4 mile.
Failing that, use the phone app, but again in an open space at a steady speed for a reasonable distance.

I’ll set that as a task for next time. As well as checking the originality of everything. It all looks ok but I haven’t been around as long as the car ( and I’m retired !! )

geoberni wrote: ↑Mon Jun 26, 2023 1:04 pm

olonas wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2023 12:12 pm "LED headlamp bulbs (these are the type that are a direct swap for a halogen bulb with no additional wiring)"
And illegal in a reflector light unit.

Perhaps you'd care to double check that statement.....

From the latest MOT manual linked to above...

Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.

Taupe

taupe wrote: ↑Wed Jul 05, 2023 10:33 am

geoberni wrote: ↑Mon Jun 26, 2023 1:04 pm

olonas wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2023 12:12 pm "LED headlamp bulbs (these are the type that are a direct swap for a halogen bulb with no additional wiring)"
And illegal in a reflector light unit.

Perhaps you'd care to double check that statement.....

From the latest MOT manual linked to above...

Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.

Taupe

In that case, no Morris Minor is first used after 1986!

taupe wrote: ↑Wed Jul 05, 2023 10:33 am

geoberni wrote: ↑Mon Jun 26, 2023 1:04 pm

olonas wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2023 12:12 pm "LED headlamp bulbs (these are the type that are a direct swap for a halogen bulb with no additional wiring)"
And illegal in a reflector light unit.

Perhaps you'd care to double check that statement.....

From the latest MOT manual linked to above...

Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.

Taupe

Yes and?
Since when was a Minor first used after 1986? It's the vehicle not the headlights, that has to be first used after 1986....
I flagged up the LED headlight changes 2 years ago: viewtopic.php?p=666092#p666092

DfT originally got it wrong on the MOT manual update for Jan 2021, by not including the exemption for pre 1986 which is what the Lighting Regs say.
It took them about 10 weeks to correct it.

Yes but as I understand/read that reg if a replacement Wipac quadoptic halogen unit for example has been fitted since 1986 then fitting LED is a still a failure but not if fitted to the original Lucas 700 headlamp?

But if you are saying anything goes LED HID wise on a pre 86 car regardless then you might like to take care that whatever you fit does not dazzle other road users like so many cars/inconsiderate/selfish drivers now do!

And if you do then fine

Taupe