Morris Minor Owners Club

Have replaced the rear quater pannel on my 66 2 door. Instead of using filler when I had welded it in I Lead loaded it. Just want to say that I got most of it on the floor but the overall job was great. Has anyone else on here had a go at it?

Has anyone else on here had a go at it?

Well many years ago I heard it involved some skill - so I never thought about it again
Maybe one day when I have the patience to do prety bodywork, but first of all I'd have to learn to spray and that's not going to happen just yet...

well done on doing a decent repair - body filler on the rear quarter seam would shrink over a few years and leave a telltail sink mark.

Only discovered the original lead loading when I was trying to weld
on a new wheel arch rim!! It kept melting on me!! I have tried
on lead water piping and you definitely need the moleskin rag but
I managed a decent joint in the end.

Sam, that sounds great! I'm interested. Could you please give us more details:-
where did you get the kit from to do the lead loading? (frost??)
was it easier than expected? Much sanding needed to get a smooth finish (mask work, i hope!)
Do you have to etch prime the lead afterwards?
How did you know how to do it? Instructions, video, someone showed you?
Paddles, tallow, flux, does it really feel like spreading butter on your car? ;):);):)

No, but seriously, I'd quite like to have a go myself. I've seen it done on American Hot rod and makes a change from "bondo" (yank for filler).

and can we see some piccies of the process??

I'm interetsed because I don't like using body filler, it feels like a bodge, I'd rather make lots of spot welds, then grind smooth with a flapwheel.

But lead loading?? Cool! Please tell us more...

Mark Evans does it on a car is born on discovery channel while restoring an E Type , and it is indeed a fantastic way of repairing panels and far more preferable to filler.

Andy

Well done Sam - do you have any pictures?

Nikki

"bondo" (yank for filler).

I thought they called it 'body enhancer'
I have used lead on the join between the front wings and bulkhead on a Mini once, and was well pleased, but I think I used a round file to clean up as I found it difficult to 'wipe'.
I used ordinary stick solder and found one of the secrets was to tin the metal first.

Yes you must tin the metal first as it makes the whole job a lot easier. I have got some pictures but dont know how to put them on hear. If anyone has an email address then could i email with the picies and then they put them on for me? Thanks sam

sam, I've PM'd you regarding hosting your leadloading pictures and story!!

Just be careful sanding it down! We don't want you to have lead poisoning!

Colin

yea i did wear a mask when i sanded it down.  I used a body file first though to make life a little easier and to make sure i had all my fingers left at the end.

seems like people on hear want to kow my story so here is the message that i sent john. I will put more details on later tonight and will send john the photos. anyways ...

A friend showed me how to do lead loading, and i can honsetly say that it is a lot easier than expected. It is like spreading butter on your car. I didnt use a mole skin though i used a special wooden spatular. When lead loading you must make sure you rub the moleskin or spatulaer in some animal fat, as this makes the spatular easier to move over the lead. The best thing to do is too put as much lead on as you can because when it had cooled down and turned back solid you can rub it off with a body file. This then gives a good finish.

You still need to but a smear of filler over the top of the lead if you are not an expert at it (like me) Then you can primer over the filler. I don't know who sells the lead loaidng kits as my friend brought a load of lead from an auto jumble, I dont know where he got the animal fat from. Then we just used a blow torch to heat the lead upto melting point. When appliying the lead to the body you need it in the form between liquid and solid, The it should spread easily. If there is one tip i can give you its put a sheet of steel underneith where you are lead loading on the floor. This is just so any lead that falls on the floor doesent get wasted. Then the lead on the sheet of steel or metal can be heated up to malten point and poured into a piece of angle iron at 45 degrees, the when it has cooled down again you have another lead stick to do some more loading with. If anyone else has any more questions than either put them on here or PM me with them, thanks sam

You must also make sure that the metal is free of any corrosion (even if not visible) and that it is clean. To clean the metal than you can use cellulose thinners, BUT make sure that it is all evaporated before you start the job. You can always wipe the surface and then get an air gun on it to help evaporate the cellulose thinners. Do NOT use parafin as it contains more oil than people think and this will make the lead loading harder to do.

Hi peeps, Have sent some photos to John as he has kindley offered to put them up here for me so everyone else can have a gander at them, thanks sam<BR><BR>EDITED :-&nbsp; I am o&shy;n holiday for a week now so will miss anything said till i get back cheers sam

Thanks Sam for the photos and text, I'll put them up in the next few days.

tar john did you get my email?

Hi Sam yes, I did, thanks very much, I can use the text you've put here to form the basis of a lead loading article on the www.ekmm.co.uk

Its made me think about having a go and hopefully others.

look forward to the photos and words from the otherside of your car.