Morris Minor Owners Club

So the subject of 'Which Battery' sometimes comes up and various ones are suggested.
I've done a bit of research and drawn up a list of the ones that seem to be a selection of ones that will fit on the standard tray and clamp arrangement and not look like they've been stolen from an HGV...

Any comments on the list, or other battery Type Number suggestions appreciated.
The lists are in Length order, rather than Type Number.
I haven't included Retro/Classic batteries with the exposed cell connections on the top; they're a whole different range of numbers.
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Thanks for going to the trouble to research this, it will be a useful future reference.

Yes, I agree - thank you.

Just what every classic car owner wants for Christmas - a battery selection!

This should be a sticky kept at the top of the page.

Hi Bernie, many thanks from me also.
Cheers Jonnie.

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

It was something I'd been considering for a while, and it kept me occupied for a few hours while it was so darn cold outside in the garage....

Really helpful post. Thank you

Stephen

Hello, on a wet and windy boxing day

Very useful and perfectly timed post as my 075 battery is giving up the ghost.
Does anyone have any issues with the 175cm deep batteries fouling on the heater valve? I really struggle to get the battery in.
I have a 12G940 head which should use an offset heater valve, but I cannot find a reliable one and have been using the old manual tap, but it is very hard to turn so close to the battery and was wondering about finding a slimmer battery?

Regards
David

Hi, I use a 005L, so a little shorter but slightly higher than your 075; I have no problems.
You can see in this random image (originally taken to show how Basil's Coil is now fitted) that there is enough clearance from the battery for the Servo line to sit between the Heater Tap and the battery case.

Hi Geoberni

Thanks for that, I ended up going for a 005 as well. It does not have the "lip" at the bottom (used for securing the 075), so slotted in really well compared to the old one.

Regards
David

In the past, I've used a battery with front terminals, and slid an old bicycle inner tube over the restarting bar to prevent it sorting on the terminals.
I'm currently using a Yuasa YBX3000 battery, which is rated at 45AH, 440A cold cranking. As I'm -ve earth, it fits with the terminals the correct way round at the back. It's a bit wider than a standard battery, but just fits on the shelf. I too have a 1275, but I use a London Taxi heater valve that has a bypass in it instead of the standard valve. This allows water flow around the top rear of the head even when the heater is turned off. It's a bit messy, but clears the battery nicely.

Just replaced battery, I went for 038 enduroline from Tanya, great service next day delivery and 4 year guarantee.
Mine is positive post drivers side and the posts are well setback from front so no issue with hold down strap clearance.

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2024 3:54 pm Just replaced battery, I went for 038 enduroline from Tanya, great service next day delivery and 4 year guarantee.

Bit low on the Ampere Hour for my liking.
The original battery was 43Ah or later it dropped to 40Ah, but the 038 is just 36Ah.
That's a bit low IMHO, not worth saving £1.

Tayna.

Just replaced like for like not based on price, as previous 038 35ah lasted over 10 years according to paperwork.
Never had starting issue until the battery failed totally usually never more the a couple of revolutions max.
Never used in winter, stored in building when not in use on battery minder. Alternator has plenty of amps to run everything once engine running.
I would of thought cranking amps (20 more on replacement) is far more valid than Ah unless you plan on running light etc with engine off

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2024 7:09 pmTayna.

Good old auto corect

The original batteries would have sustained a much better depth of discharge than modern equivalents - much more lead in the plates back then.

A good starting engine, with that small amount of energy recharged in minutes, along with keeping it float charged while only being used in the warmer months likely prolonged the battery life.

I’m sure Bill knows how to look after a battery better than many on the forum. A reduced state of charge for prolonged periods is one of the killers for lead/acid batteries, along with any more than about 10% depth of discharge (and 50% at the most).

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2024 7:31 pm Just replaced like for like

My point was that the 'correct' battery as per original spec would be 40Ah or more.

I agree that the Cranking Capacity is important, but CCA is Cold Cranking Amps and wasn't a 'thing' back in the 50s.
Even now there are differing standards used by different manufacturers, some using CA, which is tested at 0C (32F), others using CCA, which is tested at -18C (0F).

Different makes have different specs, you're happy with it and that's what matters since it's your decision.
I'm just saying I personally wouldn't go below the original spec.

The list I started this Post with was not exclusive, I just didn't go down as low as 36Ah.

I respect your opinion but higher AH just means it will last longer between charges if it has a drain but as soon as it starts it's being charged. In between running my master switch is off so no drain is possible. I've no interest in standard hence negative earth and alternator.
As you say as long as the owner is happy and it starts all is good.
Happy driving