Morris Minor Owners Club

Odd question time..

Would anyone have, or know the correct size for the domed slotted screws for the cup type battery post connectors. I am looking to replace the clamp type for the original style.

I have some boxed battery terminal screws in my garage. I will check the label tomorrow.

Fair enough if you want absolute originality but my experience of this type of connector is that they can be unreliable. The inside is slightly tapered and is designed to fit the taper of the correct battery terminal post. It is unlikely that a modern battery will have a terminal post that fit perfectly and so there is only a small area of contact between the connector and the post. Added to this, you cannot see if there is corrosion developing without removing the connector. I had a car that would not start on numerous occasions with this type of connector. It was always a bad connection. I know the clamp type connector is not original but I do think they are better.

Thanks It is a period battery design and I have checked the connectors on the posts they fit well and snuggly. The screw also assistsion the connectivity.

Good. Where did you get your battery? I would like to go back to original but I do not know which specific battery would be a good fit on the Lucas connectors.

You can get the connectors here: https://ckdshop.co.uk/product/lucas-neg ... al-helmet/

They also sell the positive connector. No screw supplied though. It's a Landrover part but I presume it is the same.

Stephen

I'm with svenedin on this.
There's a reason manufacturer's stopped using those battery connectors.
They don't give a particularly good contact unless well maintained and every time you put the screw in/out, to check it's clean inside, you're wearing the thread on the terminal post; ultimately requiring a slightly larger screw to be used or a battery replacement.
When I first joined the RAF in the early 70s, these connectors were still in use on quite a lot of our engine powered Ground Equipment, such as aircraft power sets.
Trust me, they weren't that reliable...

Lead is also a rather poor conductor of electricity. The oxide and or sulphate of lead (what you would get on the terminals) is a dreadful conductor

Having said that, I can see why originality could be preferred over reliability on a concours car or just from personal preference especially (if like my car) it is not a daily driver car.

There was a discussion on the health risks of lead on another thread. Somebody said I’m sure he’s not going to eat his battery connectors. Of course not but it’s very likely this type of connector will need cleaning up with Emery paper back to bright metal quite often and important to wash hands and not breathe in dust when doing that.

See: https://www.bluesea.com/resources/108/E ... _Materials

svenedin wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 10:53 am
There was a discussion on the health risks of lead on another thread. Somebody said I’m sure he’s not going to eat his battery connectors. Of course not but it’s very likely this type of connector will need cleaning up with Emery paper back to bright metal quite often and important to wash hands and not breathe in dust when doing that.

Lead can be adsorbed through the skin. Sweaty palms with open pores is all it needs.
In the 1970s & 80s, there was some aspects of my work that involved Lead Weights on test equipment.
We had to wear rubber gauntlets when handling the weights, which were up to 10lb or more, washing our hands after every job.

Lead based paints and lead pipes for plumbing were common backalong. Many in such trades must have suffered illness and early death as a result. Now we have other pollutants to adversely affect our health

Thanks for all the advice. The car is not concours, nor do I aspire to owning a museum piece simply like original look, I have the connectors from an equally (Much worse) geeky fellow owner and the battery posts have been drilled by the supplier which is Shield batteries. Not cheap but looks the part, fills the battery compartment and delivers 60 ah so with my dynamo I never have problems.

The car had the original connectors on when I bought it in 1978 and there were no issues.

https://www.shieldbatteries.co.uk/brand ... assic.html

Oh and the round Lucas sticker fits perfectly in the space at the front.

Now... about those screws....

I'm guessing you took the photo left handed... Phones seem by default to think 'top' of a landscape image is with the top of the phone to the left when taking it.
We all have our personal choices with our cars; I wouldn't have a battery with external Cell Connections. Too much risk of accidentally shorting it out and arc welding a spanner to it...
They're also, IMHO, more prone to loosing charge by damp/moisture shorting the cells.
Such batteries should, again IMHO, only be used in dedicated battery compartments with lids. They'd be much safer.

Reminds me of the days when you could remove a faulty cell and fit a new one.

philthehill wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 10:15 am Reminds me of the days when you could remove a faulty cell and fit a new one.

You've got the edge over me there Phil
I think the last time I remember external Cell Connections was the 70s on some MOD equipment & vehicles, which would probably have been 60s or 50s equipment.

philthehill wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 10:15 am Reminds me of the days when you could remove a faulty cell and fit a new one.

The Indians (probably among others) still do!

Like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l665eovBlEk

Fantastic, but a complete lack of health and safety
Way back a complete ready assembled cell would be fitted - none of this going right back to basics and building one from the ground up.
I am reminded also of the acid coming in glass carboys held in a metal cage protected by straw and having to pour out the acid very carefully. Easy to put holes in your overalls
For those not in the know - here is a carboy for sale on 'e' bay with the frame but without the straw

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374179737569 ... R7jeqq-IYQ

In ye olde days, the cell connections were external (can still get that type) so completely shorting out one cell and tagging on another was not that difficult.

Have H&S filtered down the ‘local’/‘parochial’ Indian and Chinese industries yet? I dpubt it. If actually heard of, it is clearly still ignored by quite a lot of them. All the same with imports from some of the ‘lesser-concerned’ manufacturers - there are many items, on sale in the UK, that would fail safety checks if/when carried out.

geoberni wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 9:16 am I'm guessing you took the photo left handed... Phones seem by default to think 'top' of a landscape image is with the top of the phone to the left when taking it.

It took me a minute to realise this photo was upside down. I thought I was looking at a very heavily modified Minor with the engine in the boot!

firedrake1942 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:55 am
….

Not cheap but looks the part, fills the battery compartment and delivers 60 ah so with my dynamo I never have problems.

….

You are under a misapprehension about never having a problem. Maybe not starting, or even too much dimming of the lights when everything is switched on. However, the fact remains that if the battery is not maintained at full charge it will slowly deteriorate in capacity. Every time the battery is left at ‘less-than-optimal’ charge condition there will be some small amount of sulphation. The amount may well be minimal, but it can be there and id cumulative. The amount will likely be greater if the car is not a regular user and may not occur with daily use.

‘Fraid it is a characteristic of all lead/acid batteries, but modern automotive types are more affected than really heavy duty ones, which can have a regular equalisation charge applied. Open flooded-cell batteries can be fully charged plus a bit (which causes gassing) without trouble. VRLA cells generally have much lighter plates and electrolyte cannot be replaced if gassed off.

Anyway, about those screws.....