Morris Minor Owners Club

I want to remove the screws holding the door catches and locators to the B post, and replace with stainless.
The heads are chewed up, and the screws are solid. I have been dribbling plus gas down where I think the threads are.
Any suggestions on how to remove them?
I am thinking of drilling the heads down, removing the catches and getting self-grips on the stubs that are left.
I think an impact driver might dent the B post.
Any other ideas much appreciated.

Thanks. John.

Depending how damaged they are, you might try an electric Drill as a screwdriver, but have it on the masonry/hammer setting. It might just work.

Equally, drill down the centre of the screws and use screw removers, of which there are several brands on the market.

There are what I would call the conventional type that have been around for many decades,
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extract ... eces/1112v

or the more modern version
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extractor-Upgr ... 08PD1G9F1/

Prices vary considerably for both types.

You may find if they are that solid the extractors won’t work either. Although hard they are brittle and can snap.

I’d be tempted to drill them out and retap the thread. Assuming you have the equipment to do so.

Gary

When I replaced the screws you mention, I replaced them with cap headed screws, which use an Allen key for a more positive grip. You might wish to consider doing something similar.

Thanks everyone.
I plan to replace with stainless screws, with some copperslip on the threads.

Just got to get the old ones out.......

Thanks, John.

I generally resort to left-handed drills, if other means fail.

A nut welded on the stub can be an effective remedy.

I do not use bolt extractors - too much risk of breakage with much worse consequences.

A hammer drill will not work in reverse. A screwdriver with torque settings would, but likely not adequate.

Stainless screws are more likely to gall when tightened fully.

What is the significance of the left handed drill? Are you hoping that the left handed drill will snag and jolt the screw loose Oliver?

Would coppaslip on the new stainless screw threads prevent galling?

Thanks. John.

stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 5:16 am What is the significance of the left handed drill? Are you hoping that the left handed drill will snag and jolt the screw loose Oliver?

Would coppaslip on the new stainless screw threads prevent galling?

Thanks. John.

Well, for a start, a clockwise drill most certainly won’t undo the stuck bolt!

Steel wheel studs/nuts have not rusted up, or seized, with a thread lubricant so ordinary steel is perfectly adequate. Stainless will almost certainly have a lower tensile strength than steel screws (apart from cheap chinese tat).

I have a set of left-handed drills (which I keep separate from my normal drills) for this particular task. But most broken bolts are extracted using my milling machine - obviously not possible in this instance. I usually use my mills, if possible, as changing the pillar drill motor rotation is a bear to do, although drilling a pilot hole with a r/h drill, followed by a pistol drill with a l/h drill can suffice quite adequately.

Most extractors are of poor quality (very brittle) and can easily break - so I avoid them like the plague. I have my doubts that mole grips will work with only a very short stub but worth trying. For longer studs, I start with a socket set stud extractor, if possible. I have extracted hundreds of broken fixings, over the years using a range of methods. Heat is the firsr call, if appropriate.

It rather depends on how the screws are fixed. If simply the screw heads require removing (over-tightened or rusted screw heads), there is no real problem (threads not tight) but if the fixings are rusted in the threads, that is where difficulties arise. Until you remove your hinges you will not know the situation and no further advice is necessary.

The problems usually start with people attempting to extract with thread extractors and then crying when they break them.

Thanks.
I have broken my share of screw extractors, and would not try one on something as small as 2ba.
The best screw extractors I have seen were a sykes pikavant set with parallel 'flutes' on a tempered rod. You drilled a hole in the broken stud, hammered the rod in and turned the square end of the rod with a tap wrench. They would not go down small enough for 2ba though.

Thanks. John.