Morris Minor Owners Club

I went for a short drive today in my 1968 1098cc.
When I got home I thought I would take a look at the oil level in the front dampers. When I took the filler plugs out, a small amount of oil leaked out of the top of the dampers.
Should I have left the car for a while before checking the oil; or maybe jacked the car up before checking?
I believe you are supposed to leave a small air gap at the top, rather than filling the dampers right up. I am not entirely sure how the valves in the dampers work.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
John.

There should be a void/air gap under the filler plug to allow for expansion of hot damper oil. A short drive should not have got the damper oil that hot so that it weeps out of the filler plug hole when the plug is removed.

It's only a small air gap though, 10mm (3/8") from the top of the cover.

Thanks both.

Is the best way of cleaning them out and re-filling them by removing the 6 screws and taking the tops off?

To drain the damper remove the plug at the bottom inner side of the damper. Make sure that you account for all the damper valve parts.
Once drained re-fit the damper valve and plug. Refill with a straight 30 grade oil. Bounce the front of the car to get any remaining air out of the damper. Check and adjust oil level as necessary - refit the filler plug jobs done.

Phil, can this be done with the dampers still on the car? I’ve done the rears and it’s made such a big difference I plan to do the fronts at some point. If I can do it with them still on the car it will be sooner rather than later

Cheers

The fronts can be drained and re-filled in situ. Just make sure that none of the valve parts go astray.

Hi is it possible to get a picture if the pet you are talking about please incase I need to do the same

If the pet?

Might have a go later and will take a photo if I know what of???

I think the word should be 'part'.

This is what will come out so be careful.

Regards
Declan

You may also find one or more small thin washers between the large spring and the main valve body.

Thanks all.

I have taken the bottom drain plugs out, and only a very small amount of oil has come out, even after bouncing the car up and down.
Is it a waiting game? Will all of the oil drain out given enough time? The filler plugs are out too.

I would leave the valve plug out and let the damper to drain overnight.
The more you can get out the better.

well that was very easy to do (except....)

I used one of those aluminium food trays that come with prepacked meat and fish from the supermarket, moulded it to fit under the damper to catch any spilt oil. Black cruddy stuff came out and about 50ml of fresh fork oil went in.

Here's the except. One valve was very easy to take out and nipping it back up I've found out why. The thread has gone! It's oil tight and wrapped with some prfe tape but I guess I should keep an eye out for a replacement!

Always something..

Perhaps two replacements would be no harm.
Regards
Declan

Is it possible to buy the valve assembly for the shock absorbers?

I have never seen them for sale.
Why do you want new valves?
I have in the past adjusted the valves of the front and rear dampers to give different characteristics to the standard dampers and tried various grades of oil.
If you have fitted tele-dampers you do need to remove the valves from the standard dampers otherwise they could be fighting against each other. My Minor is fitted with adjustable Spax gas dampers with the valves removed from the standard dampers.
These are the valves in question - the upper valve is standard. The bottom valve has been removed from a uprated competition front damper purchased many years ago. There are slight differences in the valves. The main differences are the thickness of the spacer between the inner spring and the valve steel body plus the amount that the outer nut is screwed onto the valve steel body. These differences will effect the damping and re-bound properties.

Thanks Phil, valves already removed when using lever dampers as top link for adjustable telescopics.
Sadly the valves were safely stored before moving house and workshop.,.... Yet to turn up. So it's a just in case..

Grumpy21 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 4:28 pm well that was very easy to do (except....)

I used one of those aluminium food trays that come with prepacked meat and fish from the supermarket, moulded it to fit under the damper to catch any spilt oil. Black cruddy stuff came out and about 50ml of fresh fork oil went in.

Here's the except. One valve was very easy to take out and nipping it back up I've found out why. The thread has gone! It's oil tight and wrapped with some prfe tape but I guess I should keep an eye out for a replacement!

Always something..

Old thread (there's a pun there....) I know but this might be of relevance to somebody in the future. This happened to me too. I thought it was the thread of the valve that had gone and I found out that a company called Vintage and Classic Engineering can supply a new valve body (they are lever arm damper specialists). However, the company suggested I made sure it was the thread on the valve and not the alloy body that had gone as this is what usually fails. Sure enough it was the thread in the alloy body that had failed on my damper so I replaced it with a reconditioned unit. I am sure I caused the thread to fail by over tightening the valve with a socket. I'd suggest using a ring spanner as this gives a better feel so as not to over tighten. The alloy thread is not very strong whereas the valve body thread is steel.

Stephen