Morris Minor Owners Club

One of the characteristics of the Minor that I immediately noticed when I acquired it three years ago (perhaps not a characteristic of 'the Minor' but certainly a characteristic of my Minor, which is the only one I've ever driven) is its lack of a noticeable self-centering steering effect. This still occasionally tends to catch me out when I need to use plenty of lock when going round a tight bend and I'm quickly reminded that, unlike in a modern car, I have to then quickly add a correction by returning the steering to the straight-ahead position, otherwise I end up on the wrong side of the carriageway. Is this normal for moggies or is there something wrong with the set-up of my version? I've checked the manuals and I notice there's no scope, or indeed recognised need, for adjustments to castor and camber angles.

I have to say that I have never noticed a reluctance to self centre the steering on all the Minors I have driven.
I have noticed though that several Minors that I have driven have very stiff steering which does not help the self cantering ability.
How free is your steering when the front wheels are raised off the ground? You should be able to spin the steering wheel with very little effort.
Whilst there is no formal adjustment for Caster or Camber the caster can be adjusted by a small amount by fitting an adjustable tie bar.
https://www.jlhmorrisminors.co.uk/suspe ... -bars.html
The camber can be adjusted by packing out the eye bolt. The amount of camber adjustment is limited by the length of the tail of the eye bolt which passes through the chassis leg.
The problem with the Minor steering geometry is that as the front wheel rises the camber goes positive so whilst you may have negative camber to start with positive camber soon comes into play. To gain the benefits of negative camber you do need to fit negative camber eye bolts which are currently not available off the shelf.

Yes, it should self-centre quite readily. I suggest you carefully check the trunnions and steering rack/track rod ends to ensure all move smoothly as they should, and replace any that have undue stiffness or slackness; you may have to partially dismantle the suspension to find the culprit(s).

The steering rack should be periodically oiled with EP90 gear oil via the grease nipple inside the car, though some prefer grease.

This video may help with your diagnosis:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8jKlVd-PgY

To check if your steering is free without jacking it up, drive the front wheels onto a couple of glossy magazines and the steering should be really easy to turn.

Plenty of food for thought there gentlemen - thank you. I will of course check the various aspects of the steering geometry that you mention and, with regard to the freedom of movement or otherwise of the steering mechanism, when I was working on the front brakes last year, with the front end raised, I found that I could, by gripping either side of a front wheel, fairly readily move the steering from full lock to full lock, suggesting that there's no undue stiffness in the action.

beero wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 10:26 pm To check if your steering is free without jacking it up, drive the front wheels onto a couple of glossy magazines and the steering should be really easy to turn.

Obviously any glossy mags except 'Minor Matters'

And, presumably, when no-one's actually reading them!

philthehill wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 6:47 pm To gain the benefits of negative camber you do need to fit negative camber eye bolts which are currently not available off the shelf.

GDF Garages/Minor Mania in Mill Hill had some on the shelf a few years ago though, and wern't advertising the fact... if its what you need it may well be worth a call

Just called GDK garages and no luck with the negative camber eye bolts.
Phil

Repeat posting.

Oh Well

I must have got one of the last sets. I've got literally no idea where they are now though