Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi guys,

This place is a Bible! Found myself crunching into every gear, so did some research and learned how to adjust the clutch, as well as learning a few other bits. Here's where I am:

My clutch has a lot of adjustment used, the thread on the linkage pointing out to the front of the car is very substantial with very little left to use on the back side, which tells me the clutch is at the end of its life. I adjusted by twisting it a good 3 or 4 turns, but found this stiffened the clutch pedal and also increased the load on the engine when depressing said pedal. Potentially the thrust bearing pushing too far and causing the engine to stall?

I've yet to get out and check for worn thrust washers, that'll be tomorrow. Simple enough - Press clutch, watch pulley. Shouldn't move.

So anyway, that's the point I'm at. I've got a basket on ESM with the carbon thrust bearing and clutch kit, but have also seen someone suggesting the cranktail bush whilst I'm down there (whatever that is - I'm sure I'll find it!)

What else would be good "whilst you're down there" bits to do? I'll be pulling the engine out and hopefully turning it in the bay. Am I hell bench pressing a gearbox under the car in winter.

The bush https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... sh-p830249 fits into the rear of the crankshaft and supports the front of the 1st motion shaft.
The fore and aft movement of the crankshaft should be no more than 0.004".
Check the clutch release arm pivot bush/bolt for wear.

philthehill wrote: ↑Sat Jan 02, 2021 8:27 pm The bush https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... sh-p830249 fits into the rear of the crankshaft and supports the front of the 1st motion shaft.
The fore and aft movement of the crankshaft should be no more than 0.004".
Check the clutch release arm pivot bush/bolt for wear.

Cheers Phil

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... le-p829543

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... 06-p829544

I assume it's these two that you're referring to?

Those are the two items referred to.

philthehill wrote: ↑Sat Jan 02, 2021 8:39 pm Those are the two items referred to.

Spot on, thanks a bunch! Also thrown in a new adjuster rod for good measure. I know these are prone the breaking

You are right much easier to replace clutch with engine out on a Minor, inspect the flywheel for scoring and the pressure plate (generally advised to replace too), old clutch friction linings will tell you which side the wear is on. Don't forget to observe putting the new clutch in the right way around and align it using a dummy shaft before tightening the pressure plate evenly.

It took myself and my 18 year old son only a couple of hours to change it from underneath, everything was new though and we have the luxury of a 4 post lift(I had put the clutch plate in back to front).

Wow that’s quick, I could only dream of doing it in that time !

In reference to changing the clutch pressure plate:-
If the clutch has given good service but the driven plate is worm out and the pressure plate is not scored I would recommend using the old pressure plate instead of fitting a new pressure plate. The used pressure plate may give better service than a latterly produced item.
The main wear items on a Minor clutch are the pressure plate contact face and the carbon thrust contact face. The springs very rarely need changing.
Not changing the pressure plate will save a few quid as well.

philthehill wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:08 am In reference to changing the clutch pressure plate:-
If the clutch has given good service but the driven plate is worm out and the pressure plate is not scored I would recommend using the old pressure plate instead of fitting a new pressure plate. The used pressure plate may give better service than a latterly produced item.
The main wear items on a Minor clutch are the pressure plate contact face and the carbon thrust contact face. The springs very rarely need changing.
Not changing the pressure plate will save a few quid as well.

Yes, big supporter that new is not necessarily better! But the plate actually comes with the clutch kit anyway, so I will have it there whether I need it or not

I would suggest that you bag up the old pressure plate and put it somewhere safe so it can be used at a later date.

philthehill wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 11:56 am I would suggest that you bag up the old pressure plate and put it somewhere safe so it can be used at a later date.

Absolutely

philthehill wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 11:56 am I would suggest that you bag up the old pressure plate and put it somewhere safe so it can be used at a later date.

Got on with the job today!
So maybe have found part of my issue. The old pressure plate had 1 of the 3 springs missing. Also, the bush on the input shaft was half the size of the one I purchased - But as the old bush only covered a portion of the input shaft end, I presume it was very very worn!

Bolt and bush on the fork replaced, though inspection leads me to believe they weren't all that bad anyway.

Now I'm nearly done but am dealing with a really annoying issue on refitting the engine. It just will not mate with the gearbox fully. I have about an inch gap!
I've currently got the plugs out and trying to shimmy then engine home (supported on a jack with wood, gearbox is held up using bungie cord) but no luck. Back is killing me!

Am I missing something here? Or is it just this fiddly?

Perhaps the clutch plate is not centred. Did you use an alignment shaft?

les wrote: ↑Sat Jan 09, 2021 7:18 pm Perhaps the clutch plate is not centred. Did you use an alignment shaft?

Yes I did, and I was quite meticulous about it too, if I do say so myself haha

Lock it in gear then when it is almost in turn the engine with a spanner on the front pulley.

Did you check the new pilot bush fitted over the end of the input shaft before you fitted it?

Quality of pattern parts can be a bit variable nowadays, it might need reaming a little.

otherwise check for burrs on the splines and if there is not one already adding a lead in on the pilot bush makes life a lot easier (a countersink bit will add one if there isn't one)

Did you check the new pilot bush fitted over the end of the input shaft before you fitted it?

Quality of pattern parts can be a bit variable nowadays, it might need reaming a little.

otherwise check for burrs on the splines and if there is not one already adding a lead in on the pilot bush makes life a lot easier (a countersink bit will add one if there isn't one)

kevin s wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 12:04 pm Did you check the new pilot bush fitted over the end of the input shaft before you fitted it?

Quality of pattern parts can be a bit variable nowadays, it might need reaming a little.

Otherwise check for burrs on the clutch splines (I've had to go at one with a dremel before now)and if there is not one already adding a lead in on the pilot bush makes life a lot easier (a countersink bit will add one if there isn't one)

Good news, it was just a faff. It's all on now!

Was ready to test but found this odd brazed adapter between the carb and manifold (made by previous owner) had broken. So fixing that first!

Hooray! Clutch swap was successful! God, it's never felt so easy and light to change gear in my life... The pedal is super easy to press, no weight to it at all, gears don't crunch... It's perfect.

The odd part is that the friction plate that I removed has PLENTY of meat on it. The thrust bearing also had what looked like a score right around it. But the worst part was the pressure plate - One of the springs was completely snapped!! The bush on the end of the input shaft was also worn to half the length, as previously mentioned.

So all back together now and running excellent. Thanks for the help guys. This is genuinely the most difficult job I've ever had to do on a act and I'm super happy it's worked out great!