Morris Minor Owners Club

Could anyone recommend the best cavity rust-proofer for use in cold conditions?

I've used Waxoyl in the past, applied hot on a hot day, but I need something that will penetrate repairs to door bottoms, etc, and will seep and creep into tiny gaps between welds when the metal is cold, so have been looking at Dinitrol ML and Dynax S50.

Does anyone have any experience of these who could comment on performance as well as penetration in cold conditions?

Thanks all!

I did my car with Dynax S50 and used a sealey SG18 gun to apply it.

Like most of these products it is fairly thick like treacle and will not spray very well if at all when it is cold, my solution was to have a bucket of very hot water and stand the 5 litre container of S50 in it for a while to warm up, then it sprays perfectly. I lathered quite a lot of it into every cavity I could find on my Traveller, I had to add a few extra holes in various places as well to make sure nothing got missed.
In total I used half the 5 litre container on it, so have enough left for another dose in a few years time.

You can read the independant test report that compares Dynax S50 with other products, it comes out way on top.
http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloa ... 13-001.pdf

Phil P

I brought some of this a few months ago and used in on the inside of the doors only a few weeks back. It sprayed out quite well via the provided long tubes and has set to a good solid wax-like coating.
I just kept a can in the house for a day before using it.
1 can did both door interiors. Car still smells a bit 'waxy', but then I haven't refitted the door cards yet.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-X-500ml-AE ... 2749.l2649

For good penetration thin Waxoyl with white spirit.
The white spirit will carry the Waxoyl into the cavity and then evaporate off leaving just the Waxoyl in place.l

Mike Sanders anti-corrosion grease is what is recommended here as being the best on the market according to the Technical University Aachen. I read a report a few years back where they coated steel plates with various products and left them out on the roof for several years to test them. Mike Sanders grease won the test. It is probably unknown in the UK but is very popular here.

https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/catalog ... gory/9278/
https://mike-sander.de/index.php/en/



Regards
Declan

In the past I have always used waxoly thinned with 30% new engine oil, this penetrates very well but does stay a sticky mess, for the cars already trested (the longest is my TR7V8 which was 25 years/ 100,000 miles ago) like this I have stuck with it. recently we have tried dynax on the newly restored minor seemed to go on pretty well, I guess only time will tell how well it works.

I think that most of these products are effective if applied correctly and regularly.
When I bought my 1955 Austin A30 , about ten years ago it was almost totally rust free and original. The elderly owner had obsessively sprayed all the greasy bits with engine oil for the quarter of a century that he’d had the car.
I know that’s no longer recommended, but it worked!
The trick, as Phil suggested, is to use something that is thin enough to penetrate but tough enough to be resistant.

Whatever you use it will penetrate better if you can either warm the car up or wait until warmer weather.

Waxoil can be applied to the inner sill box sections when the sill cover panels are removed, to the front chassis legs when the floor/gearbox cover is removed and to the rear of the chassis legs through the rear of the leg which can be accessed through the boot.
Waxoil can be sprayed down into the inner part of the 'A' post via the glove box aperture. Remove glove box first.
It can be sprayed into the chassis section of a two door by removing the trim below the rear side window.
The doors can be sprayed internally by removing the door trim.
Thin the Waxoil with white spirit for good penetration and creep.
I have used a compressed air paraffin gun to apply as it gives a good mist and the compressed air pushes the Waxoil/white spirit mixture along the chassis legs and into the voids.
Never found the need to drill holes to gain access.
beware of Waxoil/white spirit drips on your garage floor.
Phil

Mine has additional drilled and plugged holes in the A & B posts, and the top of the front chassis legs in the engine bay.
Also in the top of the front cross member and the top of the bulkhead cross member. There are also some in the side of the rear chassis legs under the back seat, as Phil says you also get some in from the rear ends of the chassis legs.

I took the precaution of covering the driveway under the car with plastic sheeting to catch any drips, however with the Dynax there were none.
It has got into all the seams as it can be seen just oozing through in places, but it has solidified before it all ran out again.
It does need to go on as hot as possible, I did mine during the lockdown heatwave we had in spring.

Phil P

Thats great advice tahnk you both Phils, Im going to compile a list using your recomendations and I will tackle my Traveller over the winter in my garage.

This bloke's quite good on the subject

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ElO4gyV6aY&t=1995s

This bloke's quite good on the subject

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ElO4gyV6aY&t=1995s