Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi my 1969 minor won't start on the key but will when shorting out the solenoid have changed solenoid but still same problem any thoughts
Thank you

Have you got power to the solenoid activation terminal?
You should have 12V power at the Red & White cable terminal on the solenoid when the key is turned to activate the starter..

I agree with Phil's first question, but also turn it round a little, run a wire from the battery non-earth terminal to the terminal on the solenoid where the white/red wire connects (fix the wire to the solenoid terminal, just touch it to the battery terminal). Does the solenoid work now? Be careful as if it does, then engine will turn over.

Does you solenoid have a button on it, and if yes, does the solenoid work when you press the button?

If none of the above works it is not unknown for the contacts to wear/burn out due to the high current that it has to switch.

I've said this in another post in the last few days, but I had the same symptoms and fitting a new solenoid did not cure them. The answer was to ensure that the body of the solenoid earths really well to the bulkhead, by cleaning the mounting screws and the adjacent metal. I was surprised at how strong this earth path needs to be - before I cleaned the metal I could get both the old and the new solenoid to click, but not to make sufficient contact to operate the starter. Both solenoids now work.

Mark Wilson wrote: ↑Mon Oct 26, 2020 8:28 pm I've said this in another post in the last few days, but I had the same symptoms and fitting a new solenoid did not cure them. The answer was to ensure that the body of the solenoid earths really well to the bulkhead, by cleaning the mounting screws and the adjacent metal. I was surprised at how strong this earth path needs to be - before I cleaned the metal I could get both the old and the new solenoid to click, but not to make sufficient contact to operate the starter. Both solenoids now work.

It's all to do with Ohms law, the resistance value of the solenoid coil, series resistors etc.
Basically, with a poor connection, some of the 12 v coming from the battery is being 'dropped' across the poor earth instead of across the coil to pull it in fully; the Solenoid coil is only getting perhaps 8 of the available 12 volts, the other 4 volts are going across the poor earth connection, like 2 resistors in Series.
Clean up the earth, and all 12 v are across the coil, so it pulls in fully.

That's why it's important to ensure car circuits have a good earth, whether it's Solenoids, Lights or anything else.

Ian andrew wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 2:43 pm Hi my 1969 minor won't start on the key but will when shorting out the solenoid have changed solenoid but still same problem any thoughts
Thank you

Is the solenoid doing anything when you turn the key?
Is it going 'Click'?
Or even 'Clunk'?
Have you got a multimeter?

Hi all,

instead of opening a new thread, I take this one for a similar problem:

from one to the other day the pull starter switch of my 1957 Milly doesn't work anymore. I can pull it, it goes back into its correct position, but it doesn't start the starter motor. Before deinstalling and dismantling the switch: What can be the problem? Can it probably be repaired or do I need a new one?

For the moment I start the engine by short cicuiting the contacts by a screw driver. Can that cause any damage (on the car, not on me)?

Thanks for help!

Frank

For the moment I start the engine by short cicuiting the contacts by a screw driver. Can that cause any damage (on the car, not on me)?

You will see the burns on the contacts, from each time you short them. Screwdriver will show signs of burning, too.

Err, use the starting handle.

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 10:32 am You will see the burns on the contacts, from each time you short them. Screwdriver will show signs of burning, too.

I just mean the bolts outside, no problem then. https://www.morrisminorspares.com/elect ... 49-p829723

What could be damaged inside that part? Does it have to be replaced instead of repaired?

Make sure that the switch is adjusted so that you are getting full contact of the contacts inside the switch.
Try the switch without the pull connected by pulling on the nose of the switch - if it works than all it requires is adjustment. If it does not work replace the switch.
There is very little to go wrong with this type of switch. Either it works or does not work.

alloriginal1owner wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 7:04 am
For the moment I start the engine by short cicuiting the contacts by a screw driver. Can that cause any damage (on the car, not on me)?

Thanks for help!

Frank

Why are you doing that?
Have you tried pushing the rod/ button in the centre?
If that doesn't work the switch is likely terminally dead, in which case you're not losing anything by trying to get it apart. A new replacement will cost upwards of £24, inc p&p if you look a little wider afield than the link you posted.

In my honest opinion you are wasting your time in trying to pull the switch apart and trying to repair it. The switch is not made to be pulled apart and even if you got it apart where are you going to get the parts from and then you have the problem of fitting it back together.
If it does not work when trying as I suggested above scrap it and buy a new or S/H switch.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131940020739 ... Sw7XZXh61g

'alloriginal1 owner' - If the starter turns over when you manually push in the switch, it might just be worth checking the nut on the connection to the switch. See here: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=70475

Thank you all. Of course I tried the rod in the center. I can push it to the ground, but nothing happens. As @philthehill recommended I tried to adjust it from inside behind the glove box: no effect. That thing has finished, I‘ll buy a new one