Morris Minor Owners Club

Folks,

Anyone know which way these go in, there is some with metal tops and some without.

Also I assume they just affix them in place with small screw.

Thanks for the help.

George

PS. Does anyone know the correct bolt size for the top hinges for the rear doors. I think they are around 50mm long, is that right.

Thanks Again

The ones with the metal "rails" go on the outside and the non metal ones are the inner of the two rear windows.

Yes, small screws, don;t forget to drill the darin holes before fitting the glass!

Mine has metal strips both sides of glass, is that a production variation or or an owner one.

Andy

chickenjohn wrote:The ones with the metal "rails" go on the outside and the non metal ones are the inner of the two rear windows.

Yes, small screws, don;t forget to drill the darin holes before fitting the glass!

there is drain holes already in the wood

yes, drill through the bottom of the channelling via those holes, so that rainwater has somewhere to go.

Or measure where the holes in the wood come out and drill holes in the channelling according to those measurements. (channeling on bench for instance). Then when you re-fit the holes should match up.

BTW, when I took the old channeling off my car there was a thin layer of Dumdum putty between wood and channels.

When re-fitting the window chanels, its a good idea to seal the front and rear pillars with Dum Dum to stop water travelling downwards and rotting the posts,also as John has indicated a seam of Dum Dum between the runners and then another between the inner runner and inner wood capping rail. This proceedure virtually eliminates water ingress through this area.

g_land wrote: PS. Does anyone know the correct bolt size for the top hinges for the rear doors. I think they are around 50mm long, is that right.

I just checked my old ones. The pillar bolts that are original (I think - with the spikes) have a 40mm long shank. Coach bolts are about 45mm shank. The longer pillar bolts at the bottom have a 64mm long shank. I think mine are 1/4 UNC, although I replaced them all with 6mm stainless coach bolts and dome (acorn) nuts.

I've just replaced the window channels too, and what a pain the butt that job was. Too many screws by far!

Trev.

putting in new channels is a pain in the butt, does anyone have any tips or suggestions to do it right. I walked away from it tonight, or it was going to be one of those nights where nothing went right!!!

Thanks folks,

George

g_land wrote:putting in new channels is a pain in the butt, does anyone have any tips or suggestions to do it right. I walked away from it tonight, or it was going to be one of those nights where nothing went right!!!

Thanks folks,

George

I agree, I found it really irritating as well.

I found it easier to re-drill holes for the securing screws rather than try to poke them through the new channel in the correct place. Don't drill right through the wood though. Posidrive screws are easier to use as the driver doesn't slip out. Screws need to be tightened down enough that the glass doesn't scrape. I found it easier to mark the drain holes and cut them out off the car. Warming up the "dum dum" (I used a teroson product) makes it easier to squash out.

Look out for the working ends of the channel scratching the new varnish too. Also don't stand on the new channel pieces as they squash closed.

I did mine one side at a time so I could copy the correct layout, but I still ended up cutting 1 piece a little too short.

Basically there are no shortcuts, just take your time and work though it.

Good luck!
Trev.
It

i'm still at the moss stage