Traveller rear door seals

[Napoleon Boot]

I recently fitted the quad rubber all around the rear door aperture, and the flat rubber strip that goes between the two doors, and it’s made a massive difference; the cabin no longer fills with exhaust fumes and there’s less of a puddle in the boot when it rains

There’s still the odd drop getting through though and I’d like to get it as weather proof as I can. I’ve got this other sticky topped seal (It’s about 1/2 inch square with a self adhesive side) but cannot figure out where it should go: https://www.morrisminor.org.uk/parts/74 ... -traveller

Charles Ware’s website says it goes across the top of the doorframe but there’s already quadrant there, should it go on the inside vertical lip of the door itself? I’ve looked in the Morris Traveller book but it’s not mentioned, and I’ve not found any helpful photos on the web!

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[gtt1951]

Hello Napoleon,
I've replaced all my rubber seals as the doors were rattling - the original rubbers having mainly perished.
Looking at your "late" traveller woodwork, it looks very different from my 1956 Series II wood.

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With the quadrant rubber fitted, there is no wood showing above it, on the transom rail

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I used to have some "peel and stick" foam strip on the bottom of the frame (to minimise the rattle of the loose doors, until I fitted the quadrant.

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You can just see the blue face of the strip prior to removal.
Maybe, with your transom rail being the way it is, does the top lip of the door contact the rail or the quad foam?

George.

[bufferzone]

Mine has the rubber quadrant seals on left and right frame, bottom frame and left door, with the foam rubber from Ware across the top frame. Here is a picture of the top of the left door which has a metal plate and the rubber wraps over the top and an inch or so on the inside, cut flat where it wraps over and in. Works well.

[Napoleon Boot]

Thanks both for the photos - always really interesting to compare Travellers from different eras and see all the minor (ha) differences - I do wonder what the reasoning is for some of the changes! Peggy has her original timber and rear doors; perhaps the foam CW sell is intended for older models. I'll have a look at how the door and aperture interface and see if a bit of foam on the door might help at all.

[Mark Wilson]

If you haven't already got it, the Ray Newell/Steve Foreman Morris Traveller book is very good on this sort of detail. Not cheap, though!

[Napoleon Boot]

If you haven't already got it, the Ray Newell/Steve Foreman Morris Traveller book is very good on this sort of detail. Not cheap, though!

I got it for Christmas a couple of years ago - great book, but couldn't find good pictures of the rear door seals unfortunately! I'd like to get his Original Morris Minor book - one for next Xmas maybe.

[Mark Wilson]

Sorry, should have read your original post more carefully! You are correct, the book isn't quite as clear as I remembered, the best photos being on pages 112 and 117. I've fitted the seals to my new wood recently, so let me know if you want pictures from any particular viewpoint. Mine''s a 71 (manual!).

[Napoleon Boot]

Thanks Mark! It's the top of the doors that have me stumped. I had a look, and the top lip of the door doesn't come high enough to properly meet the rubber quadrant around the door aperture, though I don't know if this is by design or if my doors have just drooped! There's a tiny bit of overlap but not enough to make a snug seal. If you could take a photo of the top of the doors as they close against the frame, that would be really useful!

Seb

[gtt1951]

This is the top of the LHD door and how the rebate part of the door edge closes onto the new rubber.

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The doors are a bit dropped as you can see from the placement of the door lip.
I, unfortunately, used quadrant on the door vertical overlap join, instead of the flat rubber seal, so closing the doors requires that both get closed simultaneously, but it gives a very good seal and the rattles have gone away.

George.

[Mark Wilson]

Just taken these, so quality affected by poor light! The first two show the space at the top of the door and how the seal fills the gap. There's a tiny fraction more frame showing beneath the roof than ideal, but stretching the aluminium over isn't easy!

The last blurry one shows the bottom of the same door - when fitting the doors you have to even out the gaps as well as possible, as the height of the door and the height of the frame are predetermined.

The little L shaped striker plate is home made as there wasn't one on the previous door. I think I've got it right, but if not someone please let me know!

Mark

[Napoleon Boot]

Thanks both, that's brilliant, and will hopefully help others in future as I've searched high and low for good pictures of the door interface and drawn a blank!

It looks like my doors have dropped about half an inch, as the top of the doors is about level with the bottom of the rubber quadrant. They wiggle about on the hinges so it's something to have a look at before the good weather breaks...

Thanks again!
Seb