Morris Minor Owners Club

Just a heads up really.
I recently fitted a set of new thrust washers on my 1098 rebuild, they are standard size. No matter how well they were lubricated the crank was too stiff to turn and had almost no end float.
I removed them and set them up on a surface plate with a dial indicator to compare the thicknesses of each one, I was surprised to find the thickness of each one varied depending where the indicator was positioned.

What I found was that there were some significant burrs where the oil grooves had been machined across the faces, and also around the inner radius, on top of that there were raised areas around the stamped in size markings on the back faces.

So I had quite a bit of careful hand finishing work to make these fit for purpose, and now everything goes together as it should.

And dont get me started about the new oil pump..........Bits of debris inside and no lubrication at all, I had to dress the burrs off the internal lobes before I dare fit that item as well.

The moral of this story is do not assume ANY new parts are ready to fit when you get them, always check them properly before fitting.

Phil

The poor quality of the thrust washers does not surprise me at all.
You can face the thrust washers on a piece of glass onto which a piece of fine wet and dry is placed. Using a figure of 8 motion you can reduce the thrust face to suit or level off the thrust faces. Use either WD40 or 'Three In One' oil as the lubrication. I quite often resort to using a serviceable used thrust washer to achieve the same aim. The thicker new or serviceable thrust washers should be fitted to the rear face of the centre main as that is where most crankshaft fore and aft thrust is placed, especially when the clutch pedal is depressed. You do not have to have the same thickness thrust washers to the front and rear of the centre main - if required use a different thickness washer on the front face of the centre main. It is in the end all about achieving the correct crankshaft end float.

As regards oil pumps - you are right in that you should never assume that just because it is new it is perfect.
As we all know the quality of replacement parts is abysmal these days. I try and find NOS for most things (NOS parts are out there it is just finding them) or use serviceable parts.

Slight digression on NOS. I bought what I thought was a new SU fuel pump diaphragm, because I wanted to do a comprehensive precautionary rebuild and also thought that a new diaphragm would be more ethanol resistant. When it arrived the box looked quite old - careful examination of the label showed it was manufactured in 1963!

I kept my existing 1970 diaphragm which looked OK

The term NOS is slightly misleading as how old is old - but it is still unused stock whether it be recent or prehistoric.

Anything that can have perished or deteriorated I always give a miss but things like 'A' Series oil pumps (which was one of my last NOS purchases) do not have any seals to deteriorate.

One of my oldest NOS items purchased is a set of BMC 'A' Series cam followers still in their BMC boxes and wrappings. I also recently purchased a NOS set of 998cc pistons & rings again still in their BMC wrappings and box.

As I said above the parts are out there but finding them is the problem. I am always keeping my eyes open especially on 'e' bay for that elusive hard to find part.

One of my more interesting NOS finds was a hydraulic throttle conversion for the classic Mini & Morris Minor.

Good hunting.

The supplier of my diaphragm, a well established Landrover specialist, advertised it as new, not NOS. Didn't quibble about a refund, though, and didn't want it back! I've still got it if anyone wants it...