Cavity Wax Drilling Positions

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pgp001
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Cavity Wax Drilling Positions

Post by pgp001 »

I am in the process of checking the condition of the less often seen parts of my Traveller for signs of corrosion and re-treating it.
The outer sill covers have been removed as well as the gearbox cover, the good news is that it looks to have been Wax oiled at some point and there are no signs of any rust, just a load of dried up wax residue that I am going to scrape off wherever I can get to it.

There are some 10mm holes with plastic plugs in various places, I have found them on both A & B posts and on either side of the engine in the top of the chassis rails just ahead of the eye bolts, and there is one on the front cross member. All these will get a fresh dose of Dynax S50 at the weekend.
I am planning on dosing the insides of the doors and up inside the rear chassis rails from the back as well as under the rear seat support.

My question is:- Where else should I be adding additional holes to get some in. What about the upper cross member in the engine bay ?
Also I believe there is an unseen cavity at the back of the front wings in front of the A post, is it possible to gain access to that area ?

Any advice welcome.
Thanks
Phil
jagnut66
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Re: Cavity Wax Drilling Positions

Post by jagnut66 »

Also I believe there is an unseen cavity at the back of the front wings in front of the A post, is it possible to gain access to that area ?
Hi,
If your car is the 1000 model there should be a courtesy light switch there, on the drivers side at least, to switch the light on when you open the door.
This just screws into the body, it has a '+' in it, using a large cross head screwdriver push the button into the closed position with it and undo like a normal screw.
You can then use this hole to spray cavity wax into this section.
On Abby, my former 1000 two door, I was fortunate in that there was a courtesy switch on both sides, so I did the same on the passenger side, if not on yours, then simply drill a hole at the same height and install a blanking plug after (links to some below).
Best wishes,
Mike.


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1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels, now being sprayed by me, slowly......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
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pgp001
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Re: Cavity Wax Drilling Positions

Post by pgp001 »

Hi Mike

Mine already has wax plugs fitted just near to the courtesy light switches, so no problem there.
But that only gets you inside the A pillar, I think I need to get some wax beyond that into the space behind the front wing back panel and the outside of the front of the A pillar if you see what I mean.

Phil
ManyMinors
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Re: Cavity Wax Drilling Positions

Post by ManyMinors »

You don't need to drill any holes to get into that box section. If you reach up above the scuttle panel on each side from behind the dashboard (it is easier to do this via the gloveboxes if you first remove the liners) you are in the top of the box section and have good access into what is often described as the "kidney panel". On the LH side of the car (on a Minor 1000 at least) you also have some access through the rubber grommet where the wiper drive passes through the bulkhead.
One of the most important areas in my opinion is inside the rear seat suppoting crossmember which is directly above the front mounting of the rear springs. If you remove the rear seat base you see a row of holes which provide good access to that area and if you also remove the trim panels from either side of the rear quarter panels (or "C posts on a 4door car) there is plenty of access to those vulnerable areas too.
pgp001
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Re: Cavity Wax Drilling Positions

Post by pgp001 »

Thats exactly what I was after.

Thanks
Phil
GavinL
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Re: Cavity Wax Drilling Positions

Post by GavinL »

Mine additionally has holes in each of the rear chassis rails, one behind the rear seat cross member, just above and behind the front spring hanger, and the other in the boot, between the shock absorber mount and the bump stop. Since the bump stop appears to be prone to rusting, getting cavity wax into the rear chassis members where ever you can would appear to be a good idea.
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