Morris Minor Owners Club

hi
thought I would show my home made jacking beam (was busy at work on sat LOL) fits under the two front chassis legs

Would you believe it, I've got a similar bar, for central jacking. You’ve made longer top bars, which is better.

I reckon you've got the basis of a small business there. I'd buy one if the price was right.

not sure what the boss would say LOL

Give him a percentage and he’d say ‘When can you start’?

hi
thought I would show my home made jacking beam (was busy at work on sat LOL)

Hi,
That looks to be a very good and useful idea.
If you aren't going to make any more yourself could you post up a 'how to', including what you made it out of and the measurements. I think others would be very grateful / interested to know.
Best wishes,
Mike.

It looks very good! Well done. I would recommend adding some rubber pads.
Regards
Declan

Very good but - and this is no criticism but hopefully constructive suggestions...….
As you jack the car up the contact between the jacking beam chassis leg pads and the chassis leg is going to get less as they are both moving in different arcs. The contact could reduce to the point where the beam slips and then !@:%*.
There does need to be some form of articulation at the pad end of the beam to compensate for the different arcs.
A couple of flanges on the inside of the chassis leg plate to hold the beam central to the chassis legs would also be helpful.
As Declan suggests above heavy duty rubber pads on the plates will go a long way to reducing the beam slipping.

Phil

Mine is a rather simpler affair, less professional even! It consists of a rectangular beam with a two inch high block of close laminate beech ply each end, topped with the afore mentioned rubber pads. I accept the point Phil makes although in most instances if feel the jack would roll forward to compensate for the arc, if of course, the jacking surface is level.

Les
It is the actual contact area between the chassis leg and lifting beam pad when the car is being lifted that concerns me!
You are right in that the jack should roll forwards or backwards to compensate for the lifting arc of the jack but it will not compensate for the movement arc of the chassis leg.
As the car is lifted the chassis leg goes from being near horizontal on the lifting pad to anything around 45 degrees but the lifting pad stays horizontal.
The chassis leg loading then is shifted to the rear edge of the lifting pad from which it is prone to slip or allows the edge of the lifting pad to dig into the chassis leg.
Phil

Yep, missed that point !

thanks for the constructive criticism guys
as we all know not to work under a car supported only with a jack
it was only made to lift the car up level to apply axle stands
as for making them move to keep the angle correct might look into it but my idea came from the beam jack
mot stations use,used today and no probs
i suppose if you really lifted the car up to the full jack height it might cause a problem
noted the idea of end stops on the plates and i am in the process of sourcing rubber for the plates
ill try and get some sizes and or diagram posted at some point
Stu

Whilst waiting for the measurements of the jacking bar that Stu has made, if someone wants a more diy model maybe the one shown would suffice.
The rectangular bar is approx 2 x 1 inches, (wall thickness 1/8 inch) Length equals the outside to outside measurement of front chassis legs. The timber pads are 1 1/2 inches high, to clear the sump, and about 3 x4 inches in size. Rubber topped.
Same issue that Phil highlighted but it works well and axle stands ensure safety

hi
sorry for the delay
trying to upload pics but the site keeps telling me the file is too big to add to message!
i will try another way

hi sorry its had to be done this way
this is the overall length of the beam this is the size of the top plate (i notched the box section to recess the plate you don't have to do that if your jack will allow the beam to fit under the car) i needed no more than 70mm in total height of the beam hence the plate being notched this shows the size of box section which was 60 x 40 mm i'll add some more pics in the next post

some more pics
the pin depends on the hole on the jack pad area

being used