Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all, can I change the cable operated heater valve on my 1970 saloon to an older brass tap type ? The reason I ask is that I’ve a fairly new cable operated one and it’s leaking already! They don’t appear to be to well made by the look of it? Thanks Matt

You are correct that new heater valves have been a problem for quite a while, but ESM claim to have overcome this issue. See their newsletter: https://www.morrisminorspares.com/newsletter/preview/22

In answer to your question though, yes you can

I have one that works fine. i'll get a picture.

it works fine

Thanks all, mine came from the fore mentioned and is only 6 months old. I'll get myself a brass tap type I think, I had the same problem with a series 2A Land Rover one if I remember correctly and changed it out for a brass tap type. Thanks again matt

I fitted a bonded seal washer between the brass tap and the base plate, this allow the tap to be rotated into the correct position on the threaded base plate.

I fitted a bonded seal washer between the brass tap and the base plate, this allow the tap to be rotated into the correct position on the threaded base plate.

Hi,
What size washer did you use?
Many thanks,
Mike.

I see the available brass taps are a sealed unit also, I may just go with the stub pipe instead, constant heater but no chance of a leak ?

Hopefully the new ESM valves will provide a reliable replacement - the quality of replacement heater valves is a regular topic on Mini forums. An alternative is to fit an inline valve like the one below which I believe are more reliable - sometimes fitted to Midgets which didn't have heater control as standard.

Morning Mike

I can't remember the size but you just need to measure the threaded part of the tap. Have a look at
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/produ ... tEQAvD_BwE they do them in all different sizes.

You don't tighten them up really tight, just so that the tap body and baseplate nip the rubber seal.

I can't remember the size but you just need to measure the threaded part of the tap. Have a look at
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/produ ... tEQAvD_BwE they do them in all different sizes.

You don't tighten them up really tight, just so that the tap body and baseplate nip the rubber seal.

Thanks Paul.

I would suggest that a 'Dowty' seal would be no good as a seal between the tap and the base due to the indentations in the base of the ESM tap.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/cooli ... e-p1238127

A soft copper washer which is a reasonably close fit over the tap threads with some Loctite seal and lock smeared on the tap threads would be a much better option

. Would something like this be ok to replace valve with ?

Yes
That is exactly what I have on my Minor cylinder head. I do not have a heater - the coolant just circulates back to the radiator for re-circulation
The outlet I suspect is 16mm so you will need a reducer pipe from 16mm to 13mm which is easily obtained from 'e' bay. The reducers come in straight or 90 degrees.
These are the type of reducers I use

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hose-Joiner- ... Ev5BFD6V0w

Thanks Phil, would that be a metal reducer with just a piece of 16mm hose between the take off and reducer?

Or guess I could use a rubber reducer with 13mm pipe between reducer and heater hose Which would be best?

The reducers are plastic and are well suitable for purpose.

For coupling up to the 1/2" Minor heater hose one side of the reducer is fitted into the 1/2" hose and the other end mated to the heater outlet by a short length of 16mm hose.

As an alternative I have fitted a 3 way valve inline to the heater. I use the 5/8 outlet from the block into a 3 way valve. This either feeds the heater or if closed keeps the water circulating back to the block.

It's worked OK for a couple of years now. The one I bought was for a London taxi.

Thanks again Phil, could you point me towards a suitable coupling? Would I use hose clips to connect?