Various running and technical issues.
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Various running and technical issues.
Help is required if anyone has the know-how.
I have recently purchased a '54' Split Screen Moggy that had been advertised here on the for sale section. When I brought the car I had identified several potential issues with the engine. (Water pump, and potential head gasket). On Sunday I replaced and fixed these issues.
However several things are bugging me. Having driven a few new cars since selling my '68' four door five years ago, is the following what I hear and feel from the car how all moggies are or would other parts need attention.
General info before the questions. A 1098cc engine and gearbox has been fitted during the rebuild the car had in 1998, about a '62'-'68'.
1) The clutch is either depressed and disengaged or a slight release say 10mm of travel and is engaged. I am finding it hard to feather the clutch in. Is this just time getting used to an old runner? or a new clutch? (When cold a screeching/ scraping type noise is made when the clutch engages)
2) I never expected a fast runner so is 60mph good running? Also at this speed do all minors have a growling noise from the engine/ running gear. I want to say like a heavy continuous knocking, but do not want to lead people to say the big ends are gone.
3) Does anyone know where to buy Radial tyres from that are not expensive the best quote I have so far is £40each. I think the conversion from cross ply is 155 something. Could someone confirm what?
4) The drivers door does not shut flush, after the rebuild in 1998, potentially something might be out. I have quickly adjusted the hinges on the pillar, but it still won’t go back any suggestions?
5) I have a set of reconditioned semaphores. However I know nothing about them does anyone know the following? Do they work at 6V or 12V? With a negative earth will they try to pull in? I have the original switch that controls newly fitted blinkers, will this still be okay to use at the same time as semaphores if the blinker relay unit is isolated (fitted after the switch)
6) Is 35 - 40 on the oil gauge good or bad? if bad what should it be. (When cold it reads about 50-55)
7) Finally does anyone know where I could get a set of windshield wiper arms? A thermostat housing? and a front screen rubber?
As a newbe back into the game of moggy driving I look forward to your suggestions. If anyone is near Leamington Spa and would not mind spending a few minutes one weekend actually looking at the car with me this would not go amiss.
I have recently purchased a '54' Split Screen Moggy that had been advertised here on the for sale section. When I brought the car I had identified several potential issues with the engine. (Water pump, and potential head gasket). On Sunday I replaced and fixed these issues.
However several things are bugging me. Having driven a few new cars since selling my '68' four door five years ago, is the following what I hear and feel from the car how all moggies are or would other parts need attention.
General info before the questions. A 1098cc engine and gearbox has been fitted during the rebuild the car had in 1998, about a '62'-'68'.
1) The clutch is either depressed and disengaged or a slight release say 10mm of travel and is engaged. I am finding it hard to feather the clutch in. Is this just time getting used to an old runner? or a new clutch? (When cold a screeching/ scraping type noise is made when the clutch engages)
2) I never expected a fast runner so is 60mph good running? Also at this speed do all minors have a growling noise from the engine/ running gear. I want to say like a heavy continuous knocking, but do not want to lead people to say the big ends are gone.
3) Does anyone know where to buy Radial tyres from that are not expensive the best quote I have so far is £40each. I think the conversion from cross ply is 155 something. Could someone confirm what?
4) The drivers door does not shut flush, after the rebuild in 1998, potentially something might be out. I have quickly adjusted the hinges on the pillar, but it still won’t go back any suggestions?
5) I have a set of reconditioned semaphores. However I know nothing about them does anyone know the following? Do they work at 6V or 12V? With a negative earth will they try to pull in? I have the original switch that controls newly fitted blinkers, will this still be okay to use at the same time as semaphores if the blinker relay unit is isolated (fitted after the switch)
6) Is 35 - 40 on the oil gauge good or bad? if bad what should it be. (When cold it reads about 50-55)
7) Finally does anyone know where I could get a set of windshield wiper arms? A thermostat housing? and a front screen rubber?
As a newbe back into the game of moggy driving I look forward to your suggestions. If anyone is near Leamington Spa and would not mind spending a few minutes one weekend actually looking at the car with me this would not go amiss.
Hi,
welcome to the world of Minors!
In reverse order:
About £40 is reasonable for fitted - tyres about 25 + vat + fitting + balancing.
I'm not an expert on body adjustments (or clutches) but there'll be one along shortly!
Join the MMOC, the mag is interesting - not to mentions all the adverts for parrts and supplies.
All the best,
Colin
welcome to the world of Minors!
In reverse order:
Look on the "links" page. There are a number of parts suppliers - all the ones I've used are helpful, keep lots of bits and will post bits out (I usually get them next day by normal post). Phone them for advice first, they will help you (if they don't go elsewhere!)7) Finally does anyone know where I could get a set of windshield wiper arms? A thermostat housing? and a front screen rubber?
All Minors are 12v, the coil is just an electromagnet, it will work any polarity. Flashing semaphore indicators are legal and I see no reason for not having both.5) I have a set of reconditioned semaphores
I've used Humphries, though most tyre shops will get them for you. I use 155 x 14, though 144 x 14 will fit (use the same all round! - Michelin are 5.20 x 14 IIRC). Also check out the parts suppliers - they'll sell you tyres!3) Does anyone know where to buy Radial tyres
About £40 is reasonable for fitted - tyres about 25 + vat + fitting + balancing.
Mine's had a recon engine (1098) - cruising at 50-60 is comfortable, at 70 it's noticeably close to "flat out". Depends a bit on where you are & traffic.2) I never expected a fast runner
I'm not an expert on body adjustments (or clutches) but there'll be one along shortly!
Join the MMOC, the mag is interesting - not to mentions all the adverts for parrts and supplies.
All the best,
Colin
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RE: Various running and technical issues.
1)
2)
3)
7)
That bit doesn't sound wildly good to me... I'm not sure at all what it'd be though...(When cold a screeching/ scraping type noise is made when the clutch engages)
2)
For a 1098cc minor, with normal transmission, most people find comfortable crusing is around 65mph, some will cruise a bit quicker (mine, before it died, would comfortably cruise at 75ish). However, it does depend on what diff you've got on there... which could, I guess give you a lower top speed...I never expected a fast runner so is 60mph good running?
Um, no, or at least mine didn't. Raucous, industrial, loud, all could be applied but a heavy continuous knocking doesn't sound right.Also at this speed do all minors have a growling noise from the engine/ running gear. I want to say like a heavy continuous knocking, but do not want to lead people to say the big ends are gone.
3)
Normally 145s but some of us (me included) have 155s. With or without innertubes depending on how much you like arguing with garages, and your preference... Mine cost about 25 quid each from a local motorfactor; various specialists sell them (although istr Firestone, my favoured brand, have left the market for this size leaving dunlop (v.expensive) and Kumho (v.cheap)).) Does anyone know where to buy Radial tyres from that are not expensive the best quote I have so far is £40each. I think the conversion from cross ply is 155 something. Could someone confirm what?
7)
There's a lot of specialist Moggie dealers out there; Bull Motif (01386 831755) and East Sussex Minors (ESM - http://www.morrisminorspares.co.uk/) are two that spring to mind, both can probably help - both do mail order, and I've been happy with stuff and service from both.Finally does anyone know where I could get a set of windshield wiper arms? A thermostat housing? and a front screen rubber?
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
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RE: Various running and technical issues.
Hi, shdesigns! Congrats on the new car.
It sounds like you may have a few teething troubles.
1) The clutch on a minor has a VERY short travel compared to a modern car. This is not usually a cause for concern but if the pedal is too low or high then it might need adjusting (see manual - or ask on here). There should not be a screeching noise when taking up drive. This COULD be a worn thrust bearing. Not the end of the world, just annoying. But you have to separate the engine and gearbox to replace it, but it's only cheap.
2) A 1098 Minor should be capable of cruising at 65 with a top speed of around 80 (indicated). If you have a knocking noise of excessive vibration at speed then check the propshaft joints for play and the coupling of the gearbox to the propshaft for lateral movement. Also you could check the differential for lateral movement.
3) Radial tyres are available from most (if not all) Moggy suppliers (Bull Motif, ESM, Bath, CW etc.) and are usually around £25 each. (I think I paid £23 last time). They are 145, but you can also fit 155s onto the standard wheel rims.
4) Look down the length of the car and see where they are out. There is a lot of adjustment in a Minor door, so hanging it properly can be an art! It can be done, but you can spend hours lining things up properly. Check the hinges and the door striker plate. Also the draught excluder and it's mounting flange for tight or loose gaps.
5) Trafficators for the Minor are 12V and it does not matter which polarity they are. The switch will be fine to control both systems. I personally would fit a relay to lessen the load on the switch though.
6) Is that ticking over or driving? If driving, then it's slightly low, if ticking over it's quite high. I would not worry about it either way as those figures seem fine.
7) Those items can be bought quite cheaply from Minor suppliers.
ESM:
http://www.morrisminorspares.co.uk/
It sounds like you may have a few teething troubles.
1) The clutch on a minor has a VERY short travel compared to a modern car. This is not usually a cause for concern but if the pedal is too low or high then it might need adjusting (see manual - or ask on here). There should not be a screeching noise when taking up drive. This COULD be a worn thrust bearing. Not the end of the world, just annoying. But you have to separate the engine and gearbox to replace it, but it's only cheap.
2) A 1098 Minor should be capable of cruising at 65 with a top speed of around 80 (indicated). If you have a knocking noise of excessive vibration at speed then check the propshaft joints for play and the coupling of the gearbox to the propshaft for lateral movement. Also you could check the differential for lateral movement.
3) Radial tyres are available from most (if not all) Moggy suppliers (Bull Motif, ESM, Bath, CW etc.) and are usually around £25 each. (I think I paid £23 last time). They are 145, but you can also fit 155s onto the standard wheel rims.
4) Look down the length of the car and see where they are out. There is a lot of adjustment in a Minor door, so hanging it properly can be an art! It can be done, but you can spend hours lining things up properly. Check the hinges and the door striker plate. Also the draught excluder and it's mounting flange for tight or loose gaps.
5) Trafficators for the Minor are 12V and it does not matter which polarity they are. The switch will be fine to control both systems. I personally would fit a relay to lessen the load on the switch though.
6) Is that ticking over or driving? If driving, then it's slightly low, if ticking over it's quite high. I would not worry about it either way as those figures seem fine.
7) Those items can be bought quite cheaply from Minor suppliers.
ESM:
http://www.morrisminorspares.co.uk/
Re: RE: Various running and technical issues.
...and hours ...and hours ...and hours. I believe it is possible - and one day I'll find out how! Good luck with yours.Cam wrote: but you can spend hours lining things up properly.
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- Minor Friendly
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I remember hearing once that a Midget clutch can be fitted to a moggie, and if this is done it gives a very short pedal travel. Not good. Maybe this has been done. I had a clutch on mine that had leaf type springs, and when I replaced it for one with proper springs I got a more reasonable pedal travel.
Chris.
Chris.
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Yes but its a 1" smaller and gives a really heavy clutch so no point in doing it, even when a midget engine if fitted the prefered route is the Minor flywheel and minor clutch.I remember hearing once that a Midget clutch can be fitted to a moggie
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
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- Minor Legend
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oil pressure
On a decent 1098 the oil pressure when cold should be slightly above
60psi. Once warmed up the running pressure at anything above 30mph
in top should be glued to 60psi. If your tickover,hot, is 35 to 40psi
you have a decent engine/oil pump. The Maximum oil pressure is
controlled by the Oil pressure relief valve, which is the large domed
nut aft of the distributor adjacent to the starter motor flange. This
flange prevents you from undoing the domed nut until you move
it out of the way. when you remove the domed nut you will find
a spring in there which must be of an exact length(72.63mm), if it
is shorter then you are losing top end pressure. New springs are
available. If the max pressure is still low with a correct length
spring then you are lacking pressure elsewhere in the engine.
60psi. Once warmed up the running pressure at anything above 30mph
in top should be glued to 60psi. If your tickover,hot, is 35 to 40psi
you have a decent engine/oil pump. The Maximum oil pressure is
controlled by the Oil pressure relief valve, which is the large domed
nut aft of the distributor adjacent to the starter motor flange. This
flange prevents you from undoing the domed nut until you move
it out of the way. when you remove the domed nut you will find
a spring in there which must be of an exact length(72.63mm), if it
is shorter then you are losing top end pressure. New springs are
available. If the max pressure is still low with a correct length
spring then you are lacking pressure elsewhere in the engine.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
RE: oil pressure
What oil are you using ? I suggest 20W50 - the ASDA stuff is cheap and ok - and a filter change might help too. But as Willie says - it should be 60 psi at 60 mph. Idling at ~ 20psi is ok. But is the gauge accurate ?



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Re: RE: oil pressure
Check for decent API ratings to make sure you are buying a decent oil. If it does not have any or it costs £3.50 for a gallon then avoid it!! It's re-cycled mineral oil and will not protect your engine like a decent (£7 ish) oil with the correct ratings will.bmcecosse wrote:What oil are you using ? I suggest 20W50 - the ASDA stuff is cheap and ok
RE: Re: RE: oil pressure
Guys, this information is excellent. I have not had time to try all the above yet, but this bankholiday is looking like it will be a busy one. I had heard of an old trick to put gearbox oil into the engine to see if this takes out any of the rattle. If it does this would tell me the bigends do need attention. It was only suggested to do this if I change the filter soon after. Please keep the comments coming any mechanical info like this is great thanks so far.
Hi again,
If you have a 1098cc engine and one of the old gearboxes that may account for the rumbling/knocking noises - the consensus is that the older gearboxes are a little too weak for the 1098cc engine. (again, there's another thread on how to identify which gearbox).
I'd personally suggest that you try a good 20W/50 (Miller, Castrol, Duckhams, Morris) just to see if there's a change in the oil pressure (next oil change?).
Just a late thought (and not a good one at that) - the screeching / sudden take up on the clutch. When was the last clutch plate fitted? It.s just possible that the lining material has worn through and you have metal/metal contact......
All the best,
Colin
Well, on the standard 1098cc engine and matching gearbox, the oils should be the same! It know some of the old gearboxes use EP90, but it changed to "Engine oil" a while ago (pre '62 - search for the thread on this board!)had heard of an old trick to put gearbox oil into the engine
If you have a 1098cc engine and one of the old gearboxes that may account for the rumbling/knocking noises - the consensus is that the older gearboxes are a little too weak for the 1098cc engine. (again, there's another thread on how to identify which gearbox).
I'd personally suggest that you try a good 20W/50 (Miller, Castrol, Duckhams, Morris) just to see if there's a change in the oil pressure (next oil change?).
Just a late thought (and not a good one at that) - the screeching / sudden take up on the clutch. When was the last clutch plate fitted? It.s just possible that the lining material has worn through and you have metal/metal contact......
All the best,
Colin
ASDA oil was £2.74 (for 4.54 litres) last time I bought it- used it for years in both my 1098 Minor with high compression 295 head and my 1275 Mini with MG cam/head twin carbs etc - NO problems whatsoever. Just don't expect it to last for ever. In this case - even if you don't fancy it long term - it would be worth putting it in to see if it makes a difference - and just treating it as an engine 'flush' to clear out the old debris. Then change to whatever oil you fancy - but do make it 20W50. DO NOT ever put EP90 in an engine - it leaches the copper out of the bearing shells !!



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I'm not going to repeat what others have said... but have you identified if the noise is coming from the gearbox or enginge? I know Kate has already posted about this one but Hebe is pretty unbearable at 70-75mph and above when her gear leaver starts vibrating...
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[url=http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk/wordpress/]A Minor Journey[/url] A neogreen musician, her girlfriend and a cast of thousands!
Keep track of the restoration with the live webcam!