Morris Minor Owners Club

Had some charging issues so decided to buy a dynamator.

I've used the regulator as a junction box and followed the advice of "wire A1, A, D together, then connect F and E together and replace all connections in the same place"

I've got no charge at the battery now, I must add that I haven't got an ignition light, don't know if that makes any difference but when I bought the car the previous owner had for some reason just put a wire in place of the bulb and holder, I've been meaning to put one in for a while now.

Hope I can find the issue soon!

First question might be did you purchase the correct polarity machine for your vehicle?

Second might be why make connections to the old voltage controller This alternator presumably includes its own voltage regulator? I have only ever connected the alternator output to the battery live terminal and field supply to the ignition switch via the ‘ignition’ light bulb.

The 2W bulb would limit the field current (while not charging) to approx 1/6th of an amp max. A short circuit to the field windings might damage them - I don’t know, but I would not wish to find out.

Good luck with your conversion. I have wondered, in the past, why original alternator designs were not made to fit the original dynamo casings.

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Mon Jan 13, 2020 10:40 am I have wondered, in the past, why original alternator designs were not made to fit the original dynamo casings.

Well don't hold me to this as it's a bit of an educated guess/supposition, ...but I think the requirements of an Alternator are more readily met by a squatter design in terms of windings and their interaction, Stator (i.e. the fixed windings in the case) to Rotor (the spinning shaft).

If you look at the typical exploded view of an Alternator, they usually have a lot more winding segments than a dynamo.