The rear crank oil seal - again

[catsoup]

Hi all,

I have my engine completely stripped down, and am fitting new piston rings, bearings, chain etc.

While I can get to all the parts, I thought I would take a look at fixing the rear crank oil seal. Since for some time I have had the typical dripping bell-housing split pin.

The plate that is supposed to 'skim' the scroll is so baddly worn, that its no longer possible to possition it close enough to the crank. Even filing the bolt holes out a bit fails, because the semi-circle is now too big for the crank.

So, I looked at the alternative rubber seal. I have seen on this board that they have some fans and critics.

From what I have been told I need to spend the 60 quid for a kit, and get the crank 'line bored'. Or is it that the flywheel flange just has to be thinned, or is it that the bearing cap has to be modified!? - It really depends who I ask!

Can anyone tell me whats involved?

Is there a source for a replacement 'matting plate' for the original scroll oil seal. (If not, im sure that would be a demand for someone making them!)

Cheers,

Chris.

[Willie]

I cannot advise you re the 'Burton rear seal' mod although the same
mod was made to the original 3 main bearing MGBs after oil leakage
problems and was completely successful. I can only advise that
even the factory Gold Seal reconn'ed engines had many problems
with the rear oil seal 'Archimedes Screw' system so it appears that
there is no easy cure for this problem. As RAY often comments,
provided that you have no clutch problems, you are probably better
off putting up with the drip from the split pin!!

[bmcecosse]

Try to make sure the engine has no internal pressure - that will push oil out of the seal. I run mine with one of the breathers connected to the inlet manifold via a 1/8" restrictor hole - and this makes for a leak free and fume free engine.