Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,
When replacing a brake light bulb last weekend I noticed that the rear post on that side had rotted badly (nicely concealed by the varnish). Since there are various other bits of rot on that side, I've decided to replace the entire side. I've purchased a new assembled side and I've got some questions about preparation and fitting. I've replaced some bits of wood before but not a whole side.

Firstly, in terms of preparation, it's going to need some welding first. I had a poke around today and found bad corrosion in the area around the foot rail. There is also bad rust (with holes) in that floor panel but luckily not too close to the rear spring mounting point. I imagine there is more being hidden by the woodwork and this will all need repairing before the new side is fitted. I am going to fit the side myself but cannot do the welding. My plan is to remove the side, take it to the garage for welding, then bring it back and fit the new side. This will, of course, involve it being driven a small distance without its side (the garage is only two minutes down the road). Has anyone done this before? If so, how did you manage to support the roof so that it could be driven without the side? Is this even possible?

Secondly, when fitting the new side, I will need a full set of screws. I've tried to find a full list of screws required but am having difficulty. Does anyone know if there is such a list anywhere? I asked at ESM but they couldn't give me a full list of everything I needed.

I'm going to give the frame lots of coats of Cuprinol 5 star before fitting and am planning to varnish it with several coats of standard oil-based varnish. Is this correct?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and if there's anything else I've missed off and should know, I'd like to hear that too.

Thanks in advance,
James

I don't know where you bought your wood frame from but I think Steve Foreman at "Woodies" sells a complete kit of fasteners.
Everyone you ask will give you a different opinion of what is the "best" finish for the timber frame. Over the years I have tried all sorts on mine, Somebody on here swore by, I think, "Osmo Oil"? I prefer the look of a traditional varnish to anything else but there are more modern microporous wood finishes which may be more durable? Others have suggested Danish Oil but I didn't find that very successful on my car when it was kept outside.

Thanks for the reply. I'll get in touch with Woodies again to see if I can get a one side set. I think I'll settle for traditional varnish as that's what I used before and it seems to have held up well in those places. In terms of the welding, I'm now wondering if it can be done with the frame in place or perhaps with just the foot rail removed. Any ideas?

Thanks,
James

I've bought some wood sections (yet to be fitted) and Woodies recommended this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blackfriar-E ... 2119435560

After several applications of Cuprinol

Rats! Just ordered some Osmo oil yesterday...

Applied the Osmo oil today. Nice to use and looks really good. Dried within an hour in the (very rare) sun.

looks really good

Pictures please!

Which Osmo product did you use? There seem to be a few oils.

Don

That’s a very good question! The tin is printed in German!
Does ‘3011 Farblos glanzend’ mean anything to you? 125ml was more than adequate to do all of the wood. I’ll attempt to post a photo later.

Farblos glanzend’

I think 'glanzend' is actually 'glänzend' which means shiny or glossy and 'farblos' is colourless or clear...…..so, 'clear gloss' is the meaning.