Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm betting there's a simple answer to this, but here goes...

I seem to have a problem with both my rear lights on my 1967 convertible. It appears that the brake element and the normal light element have reversed. When the lights are switched on the large element glows bright, when the brake pedal is pressed the smaller dimmer element lights up. there's bound to be a simple explanation and so i thought i'd ask here before taking more drastic action. i'm no electrical engineer but my basic knowledge of brake light brightness tells me what i currently have is wrong.

Anyone suggest what might have happened?

cheers....

It sounds like the wires have been put in the wrong bullet connectors in the boot, should just be a matter of swapping them over. Red for side lights and from memory green and purple for brake lights.

Have a look on the right hand side, that's where the wires from the fron of the car emerge. The single red wire and the single green/purple wire from the front should go into a double bullet connector with the same colour wires. From there, one wire goesd to the right hand lamp and another goes across the boot floor to the left hand lamp. The fact that both lamps are reversed suggests that it's the double connectors at which you need to look.

Is it possible to fit the bulbs in 180 degrees out?
Thereby reversing the contacts...

John

Only the very earliest cars has bulb holders that took "Parallel Pin" bulbs that could be placed the wrong way round. I have one set of those and adapted later holders into them, having been annoyed at the potential for confusion.

Thanks for the replies. Over the weekend i had a look at the connections and there is definitely a mix up with the connectors. i have the red wire connected to the green wire. i can only imagine the lads at the garage that did the MOT recently had the connections off and put them back incorrectly. anyway i've not changed them yet as i wasn't sure but these replies have confirmed that's where the issue is. will have another play around tonight.
cheers.....shaun

So after a weekend of connecting and reconnecting and through a process of elimination the light brightness issue is solved. however there is a new development. now the brake lights will only light if you depress the brake pedal super hard to the floor. brake with normal pressure and the connection is not made and the brake lights remain off. sounds like its the switch near the brake pedal, is it accessible and does it sound like it's a connection issue with the light circuit or something more sinister - thanks again for any advice.
cheers....shaun

The brake light switch is located at the front of the car to the O/S of the front cross-member. The switch's are known to be problematic.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=image ... Xg4mxDfvyM:

The switch is to the middle left in the link above.

aah ok, that's useful. i just checked mine and it's mounted near the front as it happens. it does have the servo upgrade maybe that's a factor too???
is replacing it straightforward or do you have to bleed the system after etc.
thanks

philthehill wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2019 7:01 pm The brake light switch is located at the front of the car to the O/S of the front cross-member. The switch's are known to be problematic.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=image ... Xg4mxDfvyM:

The switch is to the middle left in the link above.

Unbolt it and stuff the new one on. It should be a taper thread so you don't need to super-tighten it. Just a gooood nip. Tiny air gap can be helped by squirting some fluid up inside the switch before fitting. Not the end of the world if you don't.
Did the same last week for the same reason and didn't even need to bleed it.

cheers rob, do you think that because it does work if i press hard enough that it is the switch that's the issue? could it be something else? i'm no mechanic so sorry for the daft questions. i guess my logic says if it's the switch it either works or doesn't. any thoughts?

RobThomas wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2019 7:47 pm Unbolt it and stuff the new one on. It should be a taper thread so you don't need to super-tighten it. Just a gooood nip. Tiny air gap can be helped by squirting some fluid up inside the switch before fitting. Not the end of the world if you don't.
Did the same last week for the same reason and didn't even need to bleed it.

It's a pressure operated switch,these have far-east replacements which can go "stiff" and need more pressure to operate...I had one and decided to fit a micro-switch on the pedal itself , I'm a happy bunny now...

John

switch replaced despite reluctance of old switch to part company with the car.
anyway - all resolved and brake lights working perfectly again.
cheers.

Sleeper wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2019 9:05 pm It's a pressure operated switch,these have far-east replacements which can go "stiff" and need more pressure to operate...I had one and decided to fit a micro-switch on the pedal itself , I'm a happy bunny now...

John

Hi Sleeper, I hope you see this!
I am interested to know how you fitted a micro switch to your brake pedal? I have a failed brake pressure switch which refuses to unbolt, I have an event to go to, so I'd like a temporary solution before I get into taking the brake lines out to fit a new switch junction assembly. Any other simple solutions such as an led in the back window guidance would be much appreciated!
Many thanks
Debbie

DebF CME979A wrote: ↑Sat Jul 18, 2026 12:49 pm

Sleeper wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2019 9:05 pm It's a pressure operated switch,these have far-east replacements which can go "stiff" and need more pressure to operate...I had one and decided to fit a micro-switch on the pedal itself , I'm a happy bunny now...

John

Hi Sleeper, I hope you see this!
I am interested to know how you fitted a micro switch to your brake pedal? I have a failed brake pressure switch which refuses to unbolt, I have an event to go to, so I'd like a temporary solution before I get into taking the brake lines out to fit a new switch junction assembly. Any other simple solutions such as an led in the back window guidance would be much appreciated!
Many thanks
Debbie

Debbie

It's a kit devised by someone at Dorset MMOC Branch, so not a quick temporary fix. See their website here:
https://dorsetmmoc.co.uk/wordpress/special/

It should be simple enough to just replace the standard switch.
Sometimes you need to grip the T piece below it with some decent grips to stop it turning but that shouldn't be a problem.
If access is difficult you could remove the radiator?

Thanks for the info on the micro switch.
Sadly the pressure switch will not budge at all, even with the mole grip method it is going nowhere without twisting the brake lines.
I'll get a three way piece and try my luck with that.
Thank you
Debbie

I guess any kind of brake light is going to rely on the switch unless I can attach something mechanical to the brake pedal and that's not a quick fix.
Bullet duly bitten - shopping for parts now...
Debbie

Personally, I find that wedging the T-Piece with something, like a length of wood, to hold it still, the Switch can be readily removed with a 22mm Crows Foot on extension bar(s).

You seen sure it will give at some point, so my son has sprayed it with release spray and I'll continue to spray it over time, hopefully it will soak in and out will come apart.
Fingers crossed!
Debbie