Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi

My friends please can you tell me what is the best tool for fix the bolt of the head (wrench torque )

Regards
Sandun

Sandun
I use a Britool 1/2" drive torque wrench but any new torque wrench that has a certificate of conformity will be satisfactory.

Torque wrenches that click over when the correct torque is obtained I find are best.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/britool-torq ... 0008.m2219

Phil

Thank you ,

What is the number that i want to select when fix nut ? , it is very helpful to me when i going to buy one .

Sandun

1/2" drive and capable of 140lbf ft.

All torque figures can be found at the start of the mechanical section.

You will also need a 1/2" UNF and a 9/16" UNF I/2" drive sockets to tighten the head/rocker shaft with a torque wrench.

Phil

As well as going up to 140 lbft, make sure that it can go as low as 25 lbft - I have seen some that will read 0 - 60 or 50 - 180, and you will need to cover around 5 - 50, so as long as it will cover - 140 you'll be fine.

Sandun, the torque setting for cylinder head nuts is 40 ft/lbs.
I feel this is what you were asking.
Regards R.M.

———and only 25 ft lbs for the rocker shaft nuts?

Hi

Thank you . sorry I cant found on online shops "lbft " tools with the numbers of you have given - so please help me to buy correct one

This type i can buy (i can see this types on shops )

1/2 (12.5 ) 5- 60 Nm

1/2 (12.5 ) 10 - 150 Nm

1/2 (12.5) 20 - 110 Nm

1/2 (12.5 ) 28 - 210 Nm

Is there correct one please ?

There are conversion tables, for imperial to metric, on the internet.

There is 0.305m in a foot and one Newton is equivalent to 100g, which is about 0.22 imperial pounds.

Sandun, 40 lb per foot is 54.232717933256 newton metres, 25 lb per foot is 33.895448708284995 using the online calculator here, https://www.convertunits.com/from/pound ... wton-meter

Sandun,
The one I use has dual scales which is very useful.
Here's one which would be suitable.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-AK624 ... :rk:3:pf:0
Regards
Declan

Sandun,

1 lbf. ft. = 1.4 Nm, so the equivalent imperial torque ranges are:

1/2" (12.7mm ) 5- 60 Nm = 3.5 - 43 lbf. ft.

1/2" (12.7mm ) 10 - 150 Nm = 7 - 107 lbf. ft.

1/2" (12.7mm) 20 - 110 Nm = 14 - 79 lbf. ft.

1/2" (12.7mm ) 28 - 210 Nm = 20 - 150 lbf. ft.

I would get either the 10 - 150 Nm (7 -107 lbf. ft.), which does not cover the differential input flange, which is 140 lbf. ft., or the 28 - 210 Nm (20 - 150 lbf. ft.), which does.

The three torque wrenches I have (including my first purchase - Britool) are all marked in lbf ft and Newton Metres so there should be no difficulty in cross reading the settings.

For what you are doing at the moment I would go for the 1/2" (12.7mm ) 10 - 150 Nm = 7 - 107 lbf. ft. and not worry about the diff flange that hopefully will not need attention. When replacing the head, you need to keep all nuts tightened evenly, so for example, all to 10 lbft in the correct sequence, then all to 15, 20, 25 etc. There will be discussions as to what steps to use, may be 10, 20, 30, 40; but the more even that you can keep the figures, the less chance of distorting the head; so this wrench will provide more scope, particularly on the rocker studs that go only to 25 any way.

My wrenches have dual scales too, but some of the newer ones don't, so it#s worth double checking.

philthehill wrote: ↑Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:53 am The three torque wrenches I have (including my first purchase - Britool) are all marked in lbf ft and Newton Metres so there should be no difficulty in cross reading the settings.

Only three, Phil? I still have five. Four are Britool, the other a Sykes Pickavant. The SP gets used most as it is more easily adjusted, but over the years they have all been used according to range. Smallest Britool was for Honda motorcycle engines (one scale in pounds inches and the other in pounds feet) and the largest for wheel nuts on my lorry/agricultural equipment. The SP drops right in the middle for most cylinder head bolts and wheel nuts (30-300Nm) I usually come across. I haven’t used the big one in ten years.

RAB

The three were purchased for specific jobs.

The Britool 1/2" drive for BMC engines and general use, the second 1/2" drive is capable of up to 150lbf ft and slightly more was purchased for torqueing the starter dog on the Ser 3 Landrover and the 3/8" drive is for torqueing smaller items including my Honda XL185S M/C.

Never had a need to purchase more torque wrenches - but then again I never need an excuse to purchase additional tools - if needed it is purchased.

A most important tip as regards torque wrenches not in use is to remove all tension off the spring as it will then keep its accuracy for much longer.

My torque wrenches are treated kindly, not dropped or abused and so they last a long time.

Phil

Britool (the older ones) will certainly last a lifetime. Not so sure of the newer ones, now they have been taken over. My first was bought for Honda engines in the ‘60s, the next size up was bought for car engines in the late ‘60s. The next Britool was a second hand snip, while I was working on agri tackle, as was the big one.

The SP arrived by a different route and has proved the easiest to use for the few jobs I do now. They are all close to original spec. I always turn to my Britool socket set if there is a tough job...

RAB