Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,

Hopefully a simple one for you guys. I'm a novice but getting a little bit more confident every time I tackle something.

Still getting the hang of servicing my traveller that I have had for 12 months. However, when I've looked up which radiator coolant to use with, there seems to be different advice. Its a 62 traveller with a 1.3 gold seal Marina engine. I was planning on flushing out what's in there and refilling. I presume I would get something with a 50% anti-freeze mix as ill be using it all winter?

Thank you.

This is the type of antifreeze you need to use:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluecol-U-Un ... SwjS9a9aAJ

You should use the blue grade of antifreeze at a strength suitable for likely lowest temperatures where you live.

Luckily the blue stuff is also the cheapest. I remember the first time I came across the new grades. I asked for antifreeze and the man replied ‘What colour would you like.?’ I thought he was being funny!

Brilliant! Thank you.

Approximately how much does the radiator take to fill?

Victorplum wrote: ↑Thu Jul 26, 2018 4:48 pm Brilliant! Thank you.

Approximately how much does the radiator take to fill?

Series II onwards is about 5.5 ltrs, just depends if everything is still standard or not...

Put 3 litres of Bluecol in the radiator and top up with clean water.
That will give you a coolant mixture of approx. 50/50 Bluecol/water when the heater is included...….5.57 litres.

Thank you

Don't forget to open the heater valve to allow full circulation... reduces the chance of an airlock.

The coolant in Phil’s link is Premixed so would not need diluting.
Here is a link to Bluecol Antifreeze concentrate that would need diluting 50/50 for all year round corrosion protection.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluecol-Univ ... BcvGXk4gtw
Cheaper to buy the 5L, extra spare for topping up.
Regards John

Thanks all.

Wouldn’t have known about heater valve. Do I leave the valve open while refilling?

Open heater valve. Add antifreeze. Top up with water. Start engine but leave radiator cap off. Let engine warm up. Add more water if level drops. Switch on heater blower and check for heat. Check water level again. Fit radiator cap. Check for leaks. Job done. Then with the current weather you presumably won't forget to close the heater valve again!

Ah, ok. So the heater valve should be closed in the summer and open in the winter for the heat? I’ve never touched it. Can always feel a little heat from heater with it turned off, but it never gets too hot, even in this weather. I like to bake though

I've not found it easy to get Bluecol locally, but Halfords do a suitable version https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... e-2-litres

Victorplum wrote: ↑Fri Jul 27, 2018 7:26 am Ah, ok. So the heater valve should be closed in the summer and open in the winter for the heat? I’ve never touched it. Can always feel a little heat from heater with it turned off, but it never gets too hot, even in this weather. I like to bake though

As you have a Marina engine, I don't know if you still have a Minor heater valve with a pull/push knob under the dash to open/close it. In any event there's no set rule to open or close it in summer or winter... just a matter of preference. If the heater is warm(ish) then maybe the valve is letting-by slightly. Leave well alone if it doesn't bother you. The current batch of replacement valves generally available don't have a good reputation for manufacturing quality and are probably best avoided!

It’s a Smiths heater. I just turn it clockwise for heat. Not noticed a pull/push knob under the dash.

Agree with PB . My heater started to run warm with the heater valve closed . Due to various Posts on this forum and the unreliability of replacement vaives I have decided to leave it ! Should leaks occur that would be a different ball game . I just open the windows

Victorplum wrote: ↑Fri Jul 27, 2018 2:57 pm It’s a Smiths heater. I just turn it clockwise for heat. Not noticed a pull/push knob under the dash.

In that case you probably have the earlier heater with a valve (like a miniature stop-cock a doodle diddley) on the back of the cylinder head. They are prone to seizing up but are fairly leak-proof. Replacements are of reasonable quality if you want to change it. Mine is seized in the 'on' position. I get virtually no heat out of the heater unless I turn the heater knob to switch the blower fan on.

The heater didn’t work to start with but as I use it in winter I really needed some kind of demhister.

So I can replace the coolant without worrying about opening valves?

Thanks

Firstly. My previous post should simply read 'stop-cock a doodle diddley'. Where the heck 'stop cock a doodle diddley a doodle diddly' came from I have no idea (the curse of predictive text methinks).

If as you said earlier, the heater is warm all the time there should be enough coolant flow through it to complete your coolant/antifreeze change job without too much risk of an air-lock.

Personally, (because I'm a bit fussy about things working the way they should) I'd take the opportunity to try and get the heater working properly. Try opening/closing the valve... it may work fine, but don't force it or use any tools to try and move it. You may break it then you'll definitely have to replace it.

If you feel the heater output is poor, it's a simple task to flush it. Just disconnect the pipes and back flush the heater into a bucket.