Morris Minor Owners Club

How to fit a guaranteed made to fit alternator that doesn’t fit.

Hi all
I have put this information up as I had to ask for help from the seller of this alternator by email and was told quote:-
"Hello
yes we have sold 100s of these with never a problem lining up,
your quickest way to solve this is to add a couple of washers just to bring it forward a little
kind regards"
Unquote.
The thing is all 1098cc engines are the same, so how can it fit 100's of others and not mine?
After asking on this blog, See (https://www.mmoc.org.uk/Messageboard/vi ... 11&t=66148) Thanks for all the help from every one on the Blog as I was able to sort it out, so below I hope is the information everyone should find useful.

The kit arrived with new bracket, adjuster slide, and one bolt that's too short for anything? (no washer or nut) never used it!
if you look at the first photo you will see the Dynamo laid out next to the alternator With the alternator fitted I had hit a mechanical snag, with everything nipped up I had a 6.3mm gap, also the fan blade was very near the alternator nut

There are 4 positions you need to line up:-
1. the rear bolt hole on the engine mounting bracket and
2. the front bolt hole on the engine mounting bracket.
3. the pulley should be lined up with the water pump pulley.
4. the adjuster slide bolt on mine needed a washer so it did not bend when tightened

Do NOT just tighten up and hope for the best, you will snap one of the alternator mounting lugs off.

So now knowing the fitted rear spacer sleeve on the alternator would move (it’s a very tight fit), I placed it over the jaws of the vice and tapped with a hammer, moving it approximately the 6.3mm, Then put all bolts in loosely, but tight enough to hold everything in place.
But, now the pulleys did not line up, but both lugs looked ok, so I put spacers in the front lug to line up the pulleys, then added the same size washers to the rear. Notice In JPG 9 and 11 this nut on the adjuster slide was hard to get at, I had to undo both bolts securing the alternator to the engine and pull it forward for access. So how to line up the pulleys, use a rule or any straight piece of wood to line up and measure the alignment of the pulleys, but bear in mind that the pulleys are not the same thickness, the wall of the water pump pulley is thicker than that of the alternator, so if you line up on the flanges of the pulleys you will see your straight edge is not parallel with the belt.
My alternator was initially sitting too far forwards.
I held the straight edge across the water pump pulley and then adjusted the alternator back and forth so the belt ran parallel to the straight edge by eye.
This all took a bit of time with washers on and off several times, changing to thinner or thicker washers as required.
A lot more messing around than you would expect for a made to fit kit!
Sleeper, could you add your stud iron method picture please as it was a nice easy fix if you do not have the kit.

Had problems finding it but here it is....
Dynamo brackets , screwed bar and spacers to fit...

John

Personally I do think that you are expecting too much in that it will all go together without any fore and aft adjustment.
I would suggest that what you have done is normal procedure in converting the dynamo to an alternator.
The two bolts holding the alternator rear bracket to block mounting bracket should not be fully tightened till the front alternator mounting is aligned.
The rear mounting bracket has the two slotted holes to accommodate any misalignment.

Sleeper
The special rear mounting bracket for the alternator should be fitted - as using the original Minor rear generator mounting bracket and a piece of threaded bar could lead to flexing of the bar which could causes the alternator front mounting bracket to crack and ultimately fail.
The correct alternator rear mounting bracket does not allow the rear of the alternator to move.
I would also suggest that a nut and spring washer at the rear of the water pump mounting bracket and to the front of the alternator adjustment tube would not go amiss.
To adjust the rear alternator mounting tube use a bolt/nut and socket (fitted over the tube) to pull the mounting tube forwards or rearwards to suit. I would advise against using a hammer to move the tube.

Phil

As Phil says, it looks fairly standard. every alternator I have ever fitted has required a shim or two between the alternator and the water pump. Once the pulleys are lined up and the front shims are in, then adjust the rear bracket and spacer tube to suit. Well done for persevering.

Yes, I concur with this and turned up a spacer tp pack out at the front after offering up and making a washer sandwich. Now sound as a pound!

GPO_Van is the dynamo still serviceable ? Are you selling it ?

The steel 'sleeved tube' in the rear mount of the dynamo is designed to be a moderately loose fit so that it can take up the variations in the distances. You are meant to fit the front bolt in place and slide the tube fore/aft so that it takes up th slack. Careful not to force it too hard or the alloy arm on the alternator can crack. As Phil says, it takes the vertical loads and is meant to be 'floating' along the bolt line, if that makes sense.

Looks like it may have been biffed rearwards during shipping.

The sliding sleeve should self-position once the front mounting bolt is tight. Yes, there may be the possibility of breaking the lug at the sliding sleeve end, but I have never experienced that, and I have changed a few alternators over the years. I just pull the sleeve into position with the rear bolt.

Normal routine is knocking in the sleeve, to get clearance to fit ia new alternator between the mounting brackets, when simply replacing a failed alternator

firedrake1942 wrote:GPO_Van is the dynamo still serviceable ? Are you selling it ?

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