Morris Minor Owners Club

I’m having a little trouble with the rear bearings on my 1956 moggy .there is a lot of play in and out on the hub to outer bearing race .here are a few pics . Any help will be very much appreciated?? ....but iv been looking on the moss website and noticed the exploded diagram of the diff shows two bearings . I bought a kit from them and there was only one ?

There is only one bearing fitted to a Minot rear hub.
Item No: 82 is the bearing, item No: 83 is the seal.
You will have a small amount of bearing play until it is all fully assembled - have you got that far yet?
There should be no need for sealer between hub/gasket and half-shaft flange.
The thicker the sealer/gasket the more play is induced.
The bearing has to be nipped tight between hub and half-shaft flange.
See BMC wksp man section HH for details.
This play problem has been discussed many times on here and using the search facility will give more insight to the problems encountered with Morris Minor rear hubs/bearings/play.
Do you have the hubs fitted with the 'O' Ring?

philthehill wrote:There is only one bearing fitted to a Minot rear hub.
Item No: 82 is the bearing, item No: 83 is the seal.
You will have a small amount of bearing play until it is all fully assembled - have you got that far yet?
There should be no need for sealer between hub/gasket and half-shaft flange.
The thicker the sealer/gasket the more play is induced.
The bearing has to be nipped tight between hub and half-shaft flange.
See BMC wksp man section HH for details.
This play problem has been discussed many times on here and using the search facility will give more insight to the problems encountered with Morris Minor rear hubs/bearings/play.
Do you have the hubs fitted with the 'O' Ring?

Hi thank you for the reply . Iv tightened the hub up to 90 nm. It’s not fully fitted up ie drive shaft brake drum. The gasket sealer was a precaution as iv herd they can leak . I didn’t put huge amount on. The seal on the hub on the inner section is fitted and sits perfectly . And the o ring on the outer flange of the hub is fitted and seated fine .

Until you have fitted the half-shaft the hub will be able to move in and out.
There is no torque figure for the hub nut it just has to be very tight. Do not forget the lock washer.
Even a thin skin of sealer will reduce the nip of the bearing between the hub and the half-shaft flange.
Full details with dimensions for the bearing protrusion from the hub face is given in BMC wksp man section HH2.

Would 90nm be enough ? Or should I go more say 120 -140 nm ? seems odd they don’t specify a figure. Yes I haven’t forgot the lock washer.il fit the half shafts and see what happens . This bmc manual is it online that I can down load? Thank you for all you help .

Due to messageboard policies we can't link to the workshop manual, but do a simple Google search for "Morris Minor workshop manual" and the first result should be a PDF. You can also occasionally find paperback versions on eBay.

I do not know why they that is BMC did not specify a specific torque for the rear hub nut especially as they give a torque figure for the front hub nut.
I personally would not specify a torque setting but what I will say is - do the nut up tight using either the correct socket coupled to a 14" breaker bar or use a flat purpose made spanner similar to the one I obtained from Australia.
Do not use gorilla tactics on the breaker bar.
The nut is not thick enough to fit safely into and be gripped by the base/throat of the socket and to maximise grip the concave should be removed.
The advantage of the flat spanner is that the loading to do up and undo is in the same plane.