Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,
Need some advice, have a series 2 with seized brakes and need to move it from its present garage quickly, is there an easy/quick way of getting it moving without causing damage? Access to drivers side of the car is reasonable but the nearside is close to the lockup wall so its not easy to work on that side. Any help appreciated.
Many thanks
AJ

You'll just need to drag it out - don't try to do this by putting a rope on the bumper bars - get it round the back axle - assuming it's in forwards !!

Back axle is definately the best place on the rear as it gives the lowest chance of breaking anything.

For the front, don't loop it throught the holes in the engine bay floor as that usually makes a mess - puting it around the lower supspension arm on both sides is a fairly good place.

Pump up the tires if they've gone flat as this gives the best chance to free off the brakes and get the wheels to turn. If you can get the wheels to turn then you can get to the adjusters to loosen off the brakes fully. as they are likely to be binding and will seize up again.

Many thanks for the quick reply, just got to get a long, strong rope now, the car is at the front of a long garage! Whats the best way to get the brake drums off once its in the open? Tried the offside rear one today and it wouldn't budge...as you have guessed I'm new to all this!!!

Thanks Ray as well, Tyres all ok so fingers crossed it frees the drums enough to get to the adjusters, if the wheels don't free up what then???? thanks in advance!

AJ

You need to go round them banging them with a hefty hammer - with a piece of wood in between to stop you shattering anything ! Of course - first you have to face the battle of the cross-head screws ! maybe need an impact screwdriver to shift them if they have been on for ages. When re-fitting a wee smear of grease helps in the future - and they don't need to be tight - in fact - they don't need to be there at all !

ta bmcecosse, I'm maybe lucky, the cross head screws come out very easily, the car has never been used in the winter months from new so there is minimal corrosion/rust anywhere! Thank you for your answers.

AJ

if the wheels don't free up what then????

There's 3 ways to tackle that.
If you have a fairly strong tow car and enough helpers you can drag the car across the carpark at walking speed and get the helpers to bounce the car by standing on the bumpers - this gives the tyres a sharp grip onto the tarmac and is usually enough to crack off the brakes (anyone would think I'm used to rescuing complete wrecks )
I've done that twice but using a granada V6 and a Sprinter truck, so I'm not sure how well it would go with a small tow car.

If the tow car isn't up to the job of dragging the car enough, or if it doesn't work, the hammer method is a fairly common one.

If the hammer method fails then you may need to smash the drum if you cut through most of it with an angle grinder it will break easier. Be careful not to cut through the shoes underneath unless you want to breathe asbestos. Then a few 'careful' whacks with a big sledgehammer will suffice. A crack in one side is often enough to free the brakes a bit and then you can get to the adjuster.

I can concur with Rays Grind and thump method of drum removal.

hopefully you can get one drum off and use it as a guide as to how deep you'll need to grind to avoid taking lumps out of the hub.

I must admit I wonder why most companies use screws to hold the drums or discs on, in all cars i've worked on the wheel bolts are doing the actual work. and all the screws do is cause problems

1st I would try whacking the drums

2nd I would hit them with a bigger hammer

3rd then get the grinder out

What I wouldn't bother with is a hub puller cos the drum edges nearly always give way before the drum/ hub joint does.

Paulk

I've never had to smash a drum - just bang it -hard ! Once it moves slightly loosen off the first adjuster that comes along - easy after that.

Hi All,

Just a quick update, found we couldn't tow the car out, too many immovable objects in the way with all brakes seized. With deadline to lose garage only a couple of days away decided to try and start her, new battery, oil, clean plugs, and a few sharp taps to the fuel pump and she started on 3rd attempt, not bad after 12 years standing, selected reverse and she stalled. Tried again in second, something gave way, reverse again and one back wheel was spinning. A few more tries and she was outside blinking in the sunlight. Moving her was enough to free the drums just enough to be able to get to the adjustment screws and slacken them off.
So thanks again to all who posted replies to my original plea for help, she is home now and awaiting a new braking system.....and a few other parts!
If anyone is interested will try and work out how to post a couple of piccies, would that be ok in this thread/forum?
Thanks again all

AJ

AJ wrote: would that be ok in this thread/forum?

Yes please!

You were very lucky the clutch plate was not also seized to the flywheel - they often do if left unused for more than a year or so ! But at least it is out of the prison !

Hi bmcecosse, think I was very lucky, but was last ditch attempt!.

bigginger, hope this works, a few piccies of her just after emergence into the sunlight









Hope you approve!

AJ

Definitely - a beauty.
a

Cor blimey that is a stunner! Most cars don't look that good when they come out to play after a long time in a lockup!

Yes, that looks great!