Morris Minor Owners Club

I have located a company Ultimate Car Paint Protection Ltd who may well be a franchise . They have quoted £395 + Vat to Waxoyl my Minor . Anyone with any experience of this company and does this seem to be a competitive price ? Thanks in advance for comments .

Sounds horribly expensive to me. Why not do it yourself? Its not difficult and, also, then you know its been done properly.

Fair enough comment if I could get the car high enough to get underneath standing up !

I'd expect it to be less than half that, unless they plan to remove trim etc to get inside all the panels. Barely £100 in materials?

Do they give a run-down of what work they'll carry out for that price? It isn't skilled work.

Thanks Rob . Think I'll give them a miss and contemplate doing it myself .

Waxoyl is no longer the "state of the art" when it comes to protection. Better to spend a bit more on a rust converter and then wax for the insides. You don't want to spray wax on top of trapped water so worth getting rust converter in there for a week before the way goes in. Remove the trim panels to get inside the cavities and drill some small 4mm holes in the front chassis legs 9inside the engine bay) to get spray inside them. Plug with a blob of glue or some paint-soaked cotton cloth. Lifting the cover off of the gearbox (the big one) will give great access to the chassis legs. Just waxing the underside of the car is a bit of a waste of money since the water/rust goes on INside the panels.

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Something here would be good, especially if you don't have a compressor. I used 1.5 cans to do the insides of every orifice on our Lowlight and would have perhaps used 3 cans of clear underside wax if I had needed it.

Best to get the car steam cleaned first.

Thanks again for advice Rob.

That does seem rather extortionate .I'd expect them to do three cars for that price , as has been stated previous it's not rocket science to do it yourself. I safely jack mine up and place the car on axle stands .Remove the wheels, [slacken nuts before jacking her up], cover the drums, discs with black bags, use a wire brush to remove any rust, hand one or electrically powered one, soft brush to remove dust / debris and away to go. Best to warm the tin before hand if your using wax oil so that it flows easier. I have done four cars from one tin and haven't scrimped on the coverage doing inside the doors, backside of the bumpers etc. Yes it can be a bit messy but you'll save yourself a small fortune from the quote you've been given !

Thanks Budgie--looking like a summer DIY !

Yeh I tend to do them in the summer as apart from it being more pleasant weather to do it , I put the tin of waxoil in the greenhouse the day before to thin , liquefy it as it goes further and is much easier to use and is more fluid which enables it to flow into all the nooks and crannies.

No greenhouse but I'll do it when my wife is out and I can stand it by the Rayburn !

@Shropshiremoggie:
If you bring the car down to a certain butty and burger van, known to us both, I reckon you'll find enough oily gunk under the griddle to rust-proof your entire fleet!

You could well be right PB . Bet it would be cheaper than Waxoyl as well !!!!

Peace of mind for the price of a sausage bap

I've used Waxoyl for years and have a Sata gun for applying it. It's a lot easier with a compressed air supply, than the old thing you pumped up by hand. My father is into Dinitrol......I've just stuck to what I know. I try to apply Waxoyl when it's warm but you can thin it with white spirit.

Definately a compressor, which is a useful addtion to the armoury of tools and one of the proper high pressure injection pots to put your wax of choice in.

It atomises the wax properly and and gets it everywhere. Higher initial cost but once you have it then it will pay for itself.

I spent an entire long day waxoyling my car thoroughly having removed all the seats and interior trim, sill rails and kick panels etc to gain proper access to all the box sections. Once I had finished, I had to put it all back together and spend quite a bit of time cleaning up all the mess, oversprayed waxoyl etc.... I used a clear product inside all the box sections and the black material underneath. If a company is doing such work and using sufficient good quality material and the proper tools, I think the bill could quite easily reach that level. Most workshops are going to charge something like £40 per hour aren't they so 8 hours of (pretty unpleasant) work is £320.00 before they've purchased any materials......

I used the best part of 2 x 5litre cans to cover my car properly inside and out.

As others have said - if you can (and want to) do it yourself you will save a good deal of money.

biomed32uk wrote:Definately a compressor, which is a useful addtion to the armoury of tools and one of the proper high pressure injection pots to put your wax of choice in.

It atomises the wax properly and and gets it everywhere. Higher initial cost but once you have it then it will pay for itself.

It doesn't have to be a dear set up. I found a used compressor on ebay for £50 and a new long nosed gun is around a tenner at Machine Mart. Once you have the kit the repeat job is relatively easy. Drill holes into the cavities (front legs, sills, rear seat box, rear legs) and close them with blanking grommets afterwards for easy future access.

Great advice coming in from all the Forum members -thanks . I am leaning towards buying a compressor ( why not -a useful tool ) and carrying out a DIY rust proofing job during the summer .

When you drill the holes for injecting waxoyl you can seal these with damp proofing caps used for plugging holes in brickwork and very cheap