Morris Minor Owners Club

I have normally just periodically replaced distributor points but last December merely re-gapped them after about 2,500 miles and they have been fine since. Another 2,500 miles on and I am wondering whether to replace them, re-gap them or clean and re-gap. If people think they should be cleaned and re-gapped, what is the best way to do this (I understand a 'pip' and 'crater' develop on them over time)?
They are good 'uns from the Dizzy Doc, but at some point (ha ha!) will need to be replaced.
Any advice/comments?
Thanks.

If the points look reasonable just clean and if necessary regap. I do it with wet/dry paper put between the points and working to and fro. If they look too bad simply replace and consider possibly, a new condenser. The items are cheap enough. These simple options are the beauty of the points system.

Thanks Les,
Just a couple of extra questions:
What grade of wet/dry do you use (and , presumably, you use it dry)?
Do you clean the points in the dizzy, or take them out to do it?
Thanks.

I have used 180 grade, no rougher. I've cleaned them both ways. In situ the points are gripping the paper, which helps the cleaning process, just wipe the points surface after. Off the car is not as easy to keep the two surfaces parallel to each other, although has the advantage of being able to utilise a Swiss file to clean better.
Use paper dry.

it you want decent replacement points or condencers go to distributer doctor

Thanks Les.
Yes, Dale - as stated in my original post, I am using points from the good doctor (and will add that I have one of his condensors, as well )

sorry did not read it correctally

Well, at last I put this to the test as I had noticed the engine was sometimes cutting out when stopping suddenly - often a sign the points need looking at, assuming nothing else has been fiddled with in the meantime. The points didn't look too bad so I gave them a quick rub with fine wet and dry, then cleaned them off with thinners before polishing with a clean rag. Re-gapped them and the engine is running noticeably more smoothly and not cutting out anymore, so - success!

Years ago, when points, electro-mechanical voltage regulators and other such items were common, you used to be able to get 'Contact Files'.
I remember have a set of 2, one Red the other Blue handled, being 2 different grades, just for doing such items.
I don't ever remember chucking them so they might even be lurking in the back of a tool box or drawer in the shed.....
It's still possible to get Points Files though they are rare.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Proto- ... oints+file
It looks huge in the image, but the measurements are only 13.2 x 0.3 x 0.3 cm.
I'd swear the ones I had were probably only half as thick.

If you go to ebay, the only ones that are listed are from the USA.
I'm sure our USA based Moggie Owners can get hold of them slightly easier than here in UK. But when in doubt, use an emery board

Good quality contact sets should last a long time - many thousands of miles - with just an occasional clean and re-gap.
I seldom replace mine with new.

The problem with using an ignition points file with the points fitted to the distributer is what happens to the small amount of metal removed. Even the small amount of metal removed can be detrimental to the distributer.
If the file is used with the points removed from the distributer the problem then is making sure that faces of the points are kept square to each other. If they are not kept square to each other then that will bring its own problems.
If the points are pitted it is easier and better for the points to be replaced with good quality ones.
Even the good quality ones are not that expensive.

http://www.distributordoctor.com/

If you do need a points file here is one or more:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TASKMASTER-I ... XQuTNTMVXq

In 'The Book of the Morris Minor 1000' by Staton Abbey, A.M.I.M.I (whatever that stands for!!?) published 1960, there is reference to, and a picture of, the 'Truepoint Contact Truing Jig'. The points are fitted to the device and you turn a handle to enable an abrasive wheel to clean the points. This clever device ensures the point faces are kept square to each other. According to the author, the jig "enables first class results to be obtained without the need for any special skill."
I want one!

Ummmm....
AMIMI.....Associate Member of the Institute of the Motor Industry, so not really anything that special; it's only one step up from, 'I just started yesterday'
That's not to belittle anyone who is/was a member of the IMI, after all, we all have to start somewhere, but this level is someone who, in the modern qualification language, has done a Level 2 or 3 qualification and got a couple of years in the job as a 'team leader' in a motor industry role.

So they could quite literally be a car salesman...

-----or give it up and became an author.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... -426096234

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... -161243102

Hi yes, Phil, that's the gadget!
Geoberni - I think Staton Abbey was more informed than just a car salesman. Apart from the useful book I mentioned, he also wrote similar books for the Morris 8 and Morris Minor, the Volkswagon Beetle, Automobile Transmission Servicing and Overhaul, Diesel Fault Tracing, Maintainance and Repair, the Book of the Morris Oxford and Cowley, Austin 12, Austin A30....etc. etc.! All designed for the owner to tackle repairs and servicing.

For those who haven't seen the book and Truepoint tool, here is a photo. I found my copy in a bookshop in Carnforth 5 years ago, cost me £4

myoldjalopy wrote: Geoberni - I think Staton Abbey was more informed than just a car salesman. Apart from the useful book I mentioned, he also wrote similar books for the Morris 8 and Morris Minor, the Volkswagon Beetle, Automobile Transmission Servicing and Overhaul, Diesel Fault Tracing, Maintainance and Repair, the Book of the Morris Oxford and Cowley, Austin 12, Austin A30....etc. etc.! All designed for the owner to tackle repairs and servicing.

I was not wishing to cast any aspersions on the individual, merely indicating the level of the Post Nominals he (or his publisher) had used on the publication, since you had said...

(whatever that stands for!!?)

I was indicating that the letters AMIMI could be associated with any profession in the motor trade, sales or otherwise.
it was a different time after all.

On the subject of books for Morris Minor owners, my favourite has to be "BLMC Morris Minor 1000 Repairs" by B.C.MacDonald, (my copy published 1970). It is well written, clear and easy to understand and is very good for tracing faults and problems, using a 'symptom and diagnosis' approach. As the preface says, the book will "provide the information most often needed by the Morris 1000 owner who wants to do as much of the maintainance and repair work to his car as possible."
If you find a copy, snap it up! He, too, wrote other books - 'The Car Doctor', 'Car Repairs Properly Explained' and books on 1100/1300 Repairs and Mini Repairs.