Morris Minor Owners Club

Can anyone advise how the Brake Header tank kit is fitted? Where does the reservoir need to be fitted and how is this plumbed into the brake system?

Many thanks in advance

Take the big nut off of the back of the original reservoir, replace it with the one in the kit that has the hose fitting on it. Replace the original cap with one that doesn't have a breather hole in it, connect the hose fitting to a hose that runs up into the engine bay (or under the dash). That's about it, bar some minor details.

Rob

Thanks Rob, does that mean removing the master cylinder then?

 replace the original cap with one that doesn't have a breather hole in it, 

If one is not supplied, I would use an 'impervious to brake fluid' gasket inside the existing cap, if appropriate (probably not?). Or perhaps drill the vent and fit a small fixing to seal it up, or fill with solder, or ...

beware of the kits that come with the rubber hose. This hose is not fit for purpose and sweats brake fluid which is not very kind to your paintwork. I have never seen one that does not sweat.
You will also have to drill a hole in the chassis about six inches behind the M/C which requires de-burring and a grommet fitted. The hose is then bent 90° and is secured to the spigot on the new blanking plug supplied with the kit with a jubilee clip. A very messy job with the M/C in situ.
I make high quality remote reservoir kits for the MG TD/TF but I use stainless steel braided Teflon hose and connect to the M/C via a banjo. The M/C is almost identical to the M/C on the Minor. On the TD/TF access is not a real issue.
My latest kit uses a top entry but that would be a problem on the Minor due to the M/C location.
My original kit will fit the Minor but is a lot more expensive. My mate fitted it on his Minor and it does not sweat.

Regards
Declan

I have installed a remote M/C reservoir on my MM. The filler cap is replaced by a non vented cap with a copper washer for a seal. The new rear M/C blanking plug is replaced by one which is fed fluid from the reservoir and has similar copper washer seals. These fittings I made from phosphor bronze. The hose from the remote reservoir to the M/C is Speedflow 200-4 series stainless steel braided Teflon and used with appropriate Speedflow fittings. Have attached pics of the new non-vented filler plug and new rear reservoir plug with provision for hose. Also pics of the M/C with hose and fittings attached. This installation allows checking of the fluid level at a glance and topping up if necessary without lifting carpet etc. to access M/C. It also provides extra fluid storage capacity when disc brakes are fitted which is not necessary with drum brakes. A word of caution re the kits being offered by various suppliers. The plastic and 'rubber' hoses weep fluid and will soon strip paint that contacts the fluid. It is important to use 'teflon' hose similar to that which I have described. The reservoir is secured by the two 5/16" BSF tapped holes inboard of the right side shock absorber.
Bob

Hi Declan
You posted while I was still typing. None the less two warnings should be better than one!
Bob

Nice work Bob!
Exactly the same fitting arrangement!
Regards
Declan

Thanks guys

How about cutting the rear end of the hole the M-cyl drops into to get better access? A longer cover plate piece would be needed but it would save a lot of effort in the long run?

Declan
Thank you
"This hose is not fit for purpose and sweats brake fluid which is not very kind to your paintwork. I have never seen one that does not sweat." I wondered where the fluid was coming from...looks like I'll have to start looking for some silicon hose.

Thanks
John

I've got the JLH kit waiting to be fitted, uses a copper pipe from reservoir to MC. The only possible complication is flaring the end of the supplied pipe.

http://www.jlhmorrisminors.co.uk/brakin ... k-kit.html

The only possible complication

Flaring? Olives are more likely? Only about a half metre water guage pressure, I would guess.

I can`t imagine a reputable company producing a kit where you have to flare copper pipe. There is something wrong somewhere.

Regards
Declan

So who sells the braided hose kit and is there a link?

http://www.speedflow.com.au/hoses.html
Perhaps you can source a local supplier or someone closer to home.
Bob

Declan_Burns wrote:I can`t imagine a reputable company producing a kit where you have to flare copper pipe. There is something wrong somewhere

It is standard copper brake pipe from reservoir to MC, supplied unfinished for installer to cut pipe to length and fit the union, which requires a flare to be formed. If someone isn't happy doing it themselves then a local garage would no doubt make up the pipe?

I also would expect a supplier to provide a kit with the pipe already flared.
Not everyone has access to a flaring tool.
Saying that when I fitted my hydraulic clutch header tank I had to put a flare on the end of the pipe coupled to the reservoir. But there again it was a case of self sourced parts as the reservoir kits were not available at that time.
The reservoir and first section of copper pipe can be seen lurking in the L/H background of the photo below.

I may consider doing a kit especially for the Morris Minor. I have the tooling to make the rear plugs and have ordered some 32mm hex bar stock. The components I use are mainly stainless steel from Torques UK but they are not cheap.
Regards
Declan

I am also having trouble with a header tank to my Brake master cylinder (BMC) leaking, mine also has a plastic pipe held onto the BMC and the header tank using cable ties, totally useless, I had to buy some petrol pipe jubilee clips to successfully hold the pipes in place, losing most of the brake fluid in the process.
It’s still leaking, but only slowly, luckily I had not put the carpets down as I had noticed a slow drop in fluid level over about 2 months, took the gear box cover off again and put my finger under the pipe connected to the BMC and yes brake fluid, I never overtighten jubilee clips after a previous problem with a leaky petrol pipe, so I tightened it slightly, still weeping, several more tightening’s and it is very tight, still leaking.

The sales of goods act says something along the lines of, “Goods should be fit for purpose, i.e that they are capable of carrying out the purpose for what they were designed to do”

Would I be within my rights to send it back and ask for a refund?? or pay extra, less original cost for a better one?
I assume they would say, “well no one else has complained”

How many of you out there have had these problems? In fact I’ll start a new thread, “ how many people have had leak problems with plastic pipe brake header tanks