Morris Minor Owners Club

I know there are many posts on this, once again the cable operated heater valve fails. Unfortunately it stranded me this time, and required a visit from the AA, who was a throughly nice guy and with some epoxy putty got me water tight and I drove the rest of the way home without issue.

Fortunately having a temperature gauge I noticed it creeping up from where it normally runs, at first I thought it was due to us just pulling up quite a steep hill, but when it kept climbing up on the descent it spelt trouble. No other damage was done fortunately with the overheat as it was noticed quickly.

I like the convenience of having the cable operated valve, so I am going to have a go at engineering one of these to fit......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191738911759

I have got a heater hose take off for a late Mini, hence the 5/8 valve, and I will reduce it back down to half inch after the valve.

Don't know whether it will need a mounting bracket, or will self support in the hoses, but I am sure something professional can be made to fit on the side of the battery tray area.

Unfortunately I am am going to have to sacrifice originality here for reliability.

The same seller does 1/2" ones, would be better to use that. It will mount in-line OK but can be fitted to the battery tray.

My cable operated one on the trav stuck on last week. Got it free again with lots of oil etc but the original tap type on the old saloon seems to be bombproof.

Nope they do seize - like any tap unless regularly lubed and turned up and down, Easier to take apart and renovate though!

ive got the origional tap works a treat

biomed32uk wrote:I know there are many posts on this, once again the cable operated heater valve fails. Unfortunately it stranded me this time, and required a visit from the AA, who was a throughly nice guy and with some epoxy putty got me water tight and I drove the rest of the way home without issue.

Fortunately having a temperature gauge I noticed it creeping up from where it normally runs, at first I thought it was due to us just pulling up quite a steep hill, but when it kept climbing up on the descent it spelt trouble. No other damage was done fortunately with the overheat as it was noticed quickly.

I like the convenience of having the cable operated valve, so I am going to have a go at engineering one of these to fit......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191738911759

I like the lateral thinking!
Coincidentally this seller is just down the road from me, & I know two mechanics with a unit in the same block!
When I get a chance I will pop down & checkout these valves just out of curiosity.
(I have to take the engine out & fit a new clutch to my Traveller, as well as some brake work on my Moss Malvern this week so not sure when that chance will come!)
BTW, my cable valve came from Bryan Gostling (MMOC stock) & has been fine.

Never thought of club spares, that's a good call, I have emailed Bryan.

These valves look quite good, be interested if you check them out to see what you think. If club spares does not have anything then I will be trying one, 1/2 would be better I agree, I will have to make a take off up for the head which won't be too difficult.

I am just thinking of a bracket from the side of the battery box and hold the valve horizontal in the area of the back of the head, it may even just fix straight to the side of it, all depending on how the hoses will run.

Thats something that can be discovered when I have one, and a plan is worked out.

The AA man gave me a tube of the epoxy putty, its good stuff and will be in my toolkit in the car.

Declans fitted a mini valve on his. He made an adapter. Have a search.

If your not one for originality when you fit a hose stub to the head in place of the valve the hose run from it to the valve will be short and cause problems with connecting it up. There is no need to place it in the same spot as original, place it on the other heater hose and this will give you a bit more space to place the valve in a good position. As long as the valve is stopping the flow of water it does not matter where in the system you put it.

I like originality, but I have to put reliability first, why can't someone reproduce a heater valve that actually lasts more than 5 minutes. I know we all want things on the cheap, but if someone came up with one thats a few pounds more, but actually lasts then I know where my money would be going.

I took one of the failed ones apart, I can't believe how poorly made they are inside, all that holds the water in is this really thin rubber like seal. All the valves need is a decent end on them, with a proper gland where the spindle emerges, it really wouldn't take much.

A thermostatic radiator valve works much the same with a pin that pushes in and out to control the water flow. I shall park the old valves on the back of the bench and think about that one. There has to be a way to make them better.

Meanwhile I have ordered one of the 1/2 T7 ones, I have a plan now on how to fit it which should look quite neat. I am thinking a right angle hose stub out of the back of the head, and a bracket that piggy backs onto the engine steady bracket to mount the valve on.

Watch this space, I will report back as to how it works out.

Well the heater valve seems very good quality, is very nice in operation and full travel is really close to what I can get with the original cable. I will have to move the hole in just a touch to reduce the travel required between extremes. A choke cable nipple will be used to attach the cable.

For the time being I have made a quick bracket up to attach it to the steady bar, as that puts it in the right place. Over next winter I may find a better way but for now this should be fine.

I made an adaptor up for the back of the head, which basically gives it a 1/2" BSP connection. The elbow needs to come up, I am waiting for my local plumbers merchant to get me a brass radiator tail extender, basically a brass male to female coupler. A hose would probably just curl over there onto a straight hose barb.

So its work in progress and some fiddling in the name of research to get it right. More coming.......

Well its done, fitted and working really well. Using the existing control cable, and a choke cable nipple to attach it to the valve.

It has actually worked out better than I thought, I reckon it may just end up staying like it is.

No too bad looking either, the adapter on the back of the head got painted, as I got a chrome radiator valve extension that looked way out of place, at least BMC green it kind of looks more like it should be there.

If you want a cable operated valve they seem a pretty good solution, it can't be any worse than the repro valves. I reckon you would get away with it just floating in the hose and no bracket to the engine, but it looks a little more fitted with a bracket.

Looks almost authentic, especially with the outlet painted BMC green. If it works, why change it ?

Well done Geoff!
An excellent solution to an age old problem.

Regards
Declan

Thanks Declan, I am actually going to write it up, I think it would a good one for an article in Minor Matters.

I know there are other solutions, but it adds to the choice.

I can't see the repro valves being sorted anytime soon.