Morris Minor Owners Club

What’s the best way to remove the countersunk screws holding the door to the hinges? And how easy is it?

I’m guessing an impact driver is the way to go, but I wonder how effective it might be? Or is it likely just to tear apart the screw head, shear it off or dent the door?

Failing that, I know my friendly mechanic has one of those electric whizzy guns…

Any other tips?

My reason for removing the hinge is to renew the hinge pins, but I’d be very interested to hear whether anyone’s been able to do that without removing the hinge. Unlikely, I know, but I can always hope!

Thanks all

To replace the hinge pins it is much easier to have the hinge away from the door and 'A'/'B' posts.
You have to drill the hinge to enable the slightly larger dia hinge pin to fit.
The bolt /screw thread is 5/16" BSF so I would drill out the old bolt / screw to 6.75mm (tapping drill size) and clean up the threads post drilling with a 5/16" BSF tap.
Smear Copperease on the threads before fitting.

"You have to drill the hinge to enable the slightly larger dia hinge pin to fit."
Is the wear shared between the pin and hinge or otherwise?
Thanks
John

If you are tempted to loosen the hinge screws ( hinge to A Post ) remember that there is a free floating metal plate contained within the A post totally enclosed metal box shape. Before the last third screw is withdrawn , poke some wire through the hinge and plate to hold it.
It should sit / rest on a metal ledge.... not allowing it to drop to the sill area. Unless you are 100% happy it's not rusted away take precautions.
If it does drop , its a wing off. Cut an access hole in the back of the A post. Retrieve plate , weld in new ledge inside the A post. Weld up access hole , reinstate wing, wiring , etc , etc .... then after morning coffee , you get the idea !!
Bob

Thanks guys.

However, my question was actually about the best way to remove the countersunk screws attaching the hinge to the door!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I used an impact tool which must be dead in line with the head of the fixing as I found the screws not particularly hard and could chew quite easily.
I replaced them with socket headed csk fixings - much easier to turn!

Alan

I also use an impact tool - not an impact wrench, but one that is hit with a lump hammer. Hitting it turns a 1/2" drive socket with the appropriate Phillips/Posidriv end in it. The advantage of this type of impact tool over an impact wrench, is that by design, unless the socket is properly engaged in the screw head, little or no turning force is applied, so little chance of damaged the head itself.

Obviously copper grease on the threads before re-assembly.

Only if you are absolutely certain that the body work will stand the forces applied by hitting the screw head with an impact driver/hammer then use the impact driver.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of the 'A' and 'B' posts you should drill out the old screw as I advised above.
I personally would err on the side of caution and if the screws/bolts will not budge with gentle effort drill them out as once you have damaged the 'A' & 'B' posts you have made extra work for your self.
This is the type of impact driver as suggested above:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-Impact-Sc ... Sw3ydVqNYB

And as pointed out above do not forget those screwed plated inside the 'A' & 'B' posts.

I've had success before by hitting the head of the screw with a hammer, it tends to shock the hinge and screw head and break the 'seal' Do this either by hitting the end of a tight fitting screwdriver or firstly perhaps direct to the face of the hinge. Don't go mad though but a reasonable clout.

Really good fitting screwdriver is essential.....

Thanks guys, much appreciated - I'll buy myself a decent impact driver, and look to drill out and re-tap the holes if it doesn't work.

Make sure that the impact driver is set to 'undo', i.e. LH direction - most of them can do both RH and LH direction.

If you have access to heat, a quick zap with a welding torch works every time for me...