Morris Minor Owners Club

Afternoon all!

I recently bought a grumpy engine steady as the current tie point to next to the radiator isn't too solid and results in quite a bit of shake. However, as the grumpy kit has a different angle it looks like I'll need to untorque the rear head nut to be able to get the new bar pointing in the right direction. I'm worried about untorquing as I've heard danger is afoot if one head nut only is fiddled with.

The other option would be to have the bar coming out at a funny angle from the plate that's fixed via the head nut. Anyone done this before and have some advice?

I fitted the same kit using the rear head stud and nut with no problems.
Removed the head nut, fitted the bracket, retorqued the nut and job done.

I did the same but I did add a stainless steel tube to prevent the threaded rod acting as a rasp.

Regards
Declan

Putting the head on recently was the first time I have ever remembered to put that bracket on first, I always forget. As it is the end nut, removal and replacement should be ok.

If your stud is long enough, flip the bracket and put it on top with a 2nd nut.

Or whizz the head off for an inspection and clean up! Could be a load of carbon in there.

Edd

EDIT

^ Declan did you make that heater take-off extension yourself? My version is currently a lot more complicated than that would be!!!

Edd,
I have made several of them in varying configuration-easy to make up.
Regards
Declan

Just copper pipe/fittings and 4mm BMS from the DIY, an interference fit and sweat and soldered together. Been on there for years and never any problems with them.
Declan

thanks all - good to hear it's just a simple off an on job. i take it i do need to retorque after the first heat cycle though?

I was considering taking the head off to clean inside, but got a couple of decent sized trips coming up soon and i don't want to bring an unnecessary head gasket failure upon myself

I don't think it will really be necessary if you have only removed the one nut but, of course, it can't do any harm

How do I tighten the engine steady? Is the object to pull the engine toward the body when tightening, or to push it away? It seems that a turnbuckle would be the ideal solution, but when adjusting the center hex section, it doesn't effect the tightness.

With either the Grumpys kit or original type engine steady the engine vertical position should be neutral - that is the engine steady does not pull the engine or push the engine.
Just adjust the nuts to give that neutral position with the cup washers nicely gripping the Grump bracket/battery tray bracket and head bracket.
The Minor was not originally fitted with an engine steady but it was soon found to be a necessity to cure clutch judder - see Minor Wksp Man Sect AA37 for details.
I had a Grumpys engine steady fitted to my Ser 11 and it was a worthwhile bit of kit and is much better than the BMC original fitting under the battery tray.
I have tried running both with and without the engine steady and have come to the conclusion that the engine/car relationship feels better with it fitted whether the car is suffering clutch judder or not.
It is strange that the other 'A' Series in line engined cars are not fitted with the engine steady - it appears that only the Minor suffers clutch judder when not fitted with the engine steady.

it appears that only the Minor suffers clutch judder when not fitted with the engine steady.

Could that be because of the linkage where others may have a hydraulic clutch?

That could well be - but hard to prove - but it is strange is it not.

I remember the 1275 Marina I had used to suffer dreadful clutch judder, I never could stop it completely.

Engine steady all mounted now, was a right pain getting the old one off though! Retorqued the nut back to 40lbs and will drive sometime this week and retorque

Wow, what a difference the steady makes! Can now have the idle revs much lower without bones and doors rattling, very happy!