Morris Minor Owners Club

Use my 65 convertible daily in the week, and it starts fine UNTIL it's been left not run for a day or two, THEN it is a real bugger to start

Normal starting procedure (when it hasn't been left for days), is a little choke, no accelerator and fires up straight away on 4 just fine, choke straight in and after a few seconds I set off and all is well

However, when it has been left not started for more than 24 hours, it's a whole other story, try the same procedure but just turns over briskly (almost as if it's not firing), then engine catches enough to disengage starter but not start the engine, have to repeat 20 times before it eventually starts roughly (on 2 or 3) and then clears

Did this yesterday again (been left two days), so pulled the spark plugs and getting a good spark on each, but plugs were dry so tipped a little fuel down carb, and still no joy (fuel in carb bowl to decent level)

only 'solution' to get it going, is to keep cranking until coughs and starter disengages then keep repeating this, (after a few goes I wait to avoid burning out the starter) until eventually (after 20 goes) it half starts on a couple of cylinders then another few goes it actually starts

OR will go with a good long tow or push, but needs to be far enough so engine turns for a good few seconds, where then it initially seems to fire on 2 or 3, but after a few seconds jumps onto 4 and running perfectly

once it's running, it starts instantly hot or cold first time and is on 4 purring, even first thing in the morning after being out all night, and will do this day after day, until it gets left for more than a day or two again, where the problem returns

I think it's lack fuel (yet feels like flooding although dry plugs) to me but as I say even with direct feed it won't start easily if left for longer than 24 hours but runs fine up to 60 mph once ii's running, so not short of fuel once it's going, and will start even if stone cold if just left overnight first crack

If I pull the HT lead the starter will crank and crank, so no issues with the starter or battery

It's almost like an air lock between carb bowl and jet that needs drawing through

I've taken to starting it twice a day even when I don't need to use it but sometimes that isn't practical (if I'm away a couple of days)

any ideas before I burn the starter out or but a house on a hill ?

What a strange problem!Hmm..inlet/carb gasket/s maybe.i assume the points,condenser,cap,plugs(correct type?)valve clearances etc are all good and set correctly? Its worth doing a compression test and a fuel flow rate test too.Good luck.

I'm with firehor5e.... just to expand a little .What condition are the points in , clean and correctly gapped ? Rotor arm tip clean ...give it a rub on the sidewall of the tyre , if not.
Carbon tip in the distributor cap in position and spring working ? Terminals in the cap clean metal ? HT leads firmly fixed when you give them a light tug ?
Tight clean electrical connections on the Coil low tension wiring ?

If all the electrical stuff checks out.. fuel. No crud in the carburettor bowl exit ? You noted fuel level OK but plugs dry. Was the float needle
free to move , not sticking. Breather / overflow hole , just beneath the inlet , on top of the fuel bowl , covered by a small metal shield not clogged up ? Replace fuel bowl gasket if necessary. A blast of carb cleaner , having removed the air filter , wouldn't do any harm.

Fuel pump. Do you hear it clicking ( regular beat ) at all when firing up ? Use the rubber covered button on the solenoid , in the engine bay, ignition on, gear in neutral hand brake on , if you don't have a helper near by. Rubber hose pump / carb old and perishing or new'ish and flexible ? Pump general condition.... points might be sticking a bit / dying ? Has the pump filter been cleaned within living memory ?
( have a new proper washer to hand before removing and all the usual safety precautions , battery disconnected , fire extinguisher, open air , etc., etc. ). Electrical contact / power supply to the pump clean , sound and tight ?

Difficult to offer/ pin point the problem from the symptoms described. You just need to work through things systematically eliminating possible causes one by one. I'd go down the fuel route first , " plugs dry " quote being a clue but that's not say the electrical side is
100%.
Bob

This time of year everything is wet or damp, try spraying a load of WD 40 over the HT leads, cap , etc etc.
I had an old Vauxhall that simply wouldn't play if left for a couple of days and you didn't do the WD 40 thing... if you did it was fine!

comp test will tell a lot,do you still have the starting handle,turning it over by hand would give you an indication of compression,good bump on each cylinder.Dont' want to be negative but have had same on a couple of minors and both turned out to be low compression. after a few spins the oil gets up the bores and increases comp,then its enough to draw fuel at cranking speed They both would start with a long push or tow,The last one I just carried a can of easy start,quick squirt and it would splutter and start. Hope not in your case

You mention using a little choke. Have you tried full choke?

If it fires up immediately while feeding it with WD40 or engine starter fluid that may indicate fuel system. If not, then more likely sparks. The dry plugs may indicate a small air leak on the inlet, so not enough vacuum at the carb jet initially. A tight inlet valve clearance can also give the same symptoms, so a poorly seating valve could do likewise. A compression test should throw some light on the problem - do it 'dry' and 'wet'.

Mogbob has plenty for you to check out, as well.

RAB

The closest one I've had to this isnt likely to be the same but never say never.
It was a 90s engine & it happened when cold - engine would spin freely on the starter - and eventually after a lot of cranking it would splitter and after a few tries it would run on a few cylinders before running normally.

The issue on that one was because it has been overheated (totally) and this had left a sticky tar on the cam followers - when warm it didn't make a difference but when left to go cold the cam followers were very slow.. therefore no compression.

After enough work, the gluey stuff warmed up and the valves would close.

therefore comp test.....as above