Breaks stuck on

[New Bloke]

Back in the summer we started refurbing "Gary" and part of this was new master cylinder and 4 new wheel cylinders and flexible hoses. This has worked fine until just now when driving back home, got to the bottom of my hill and dropped off a mate I had picked up. As I started to pull away it felt all wrong, the brakes had locked on, there was no "give" in the pedal and the brake lights were on.

It has done less than 100 miles since the brakes have been done. Any ideas guys?

Cheers

Tim

[New Bloke]

Brakes of course. Not Breaks....

[panky]

Have you fitted discs and a servo?

[New Bloke]

No, all original, drums, and no servo, I googled this before I posted and saw reference to removing something from the master cylinder???

[New Bloke]

And like all ailments with Gary, leave it an hour and it goes away. I've just walked down the road and it is now fine. Obviously this isn't the end of it as the car is for my teenage daughter and I really really don't want the brakes deciding to stay on while she is driving. Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers

[kennatt]

if the brake lights are on then its a fault with the master,the system is holding pressure. The wheel cylinders could not cause the light to stay on. Could be a faulty master,brake pedal sticking on the Brake/clutch shaft. The bit you talk about removing is the top hat seal,taken out when fitting discs.its there to hold a low pressure to keep the shoes close to the drums,not known to be a problem. Try pulling the brake pedal up and see if that frees it. If so then its the shaft(,is known to seize up)

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

There is an adjustment rod at the back of the master cylinder connected to the pedal, this probably needs screwed back a few turns as the needs to be some free play between the push rod and the back of the pedal to allow for build up of pressure. I had this happen once when I fitted a new cylinder as the old one has been screwed forward to take up the wear.

Heres the part I mean

http://www.morrisminorspares.com/brakes ... in-p829358

[ManyMinors]

I would also suspect a lack of free travel at the pedal - as David suggests above. Check the brake lights as suggested but also check which wheels are locking. If it just the rear ones, the problem maybe the rear flexible hose for example.

[New Bloke]

Thanks guys, that's given me something to look for tomorrow. When I did the brakes I renewed all of the flexible hoses. I didn't think to lean down and pull it back, if it happens again that's what I'll do. but tomorrow I will try to slacken that yoke thingy.

I'm guessing No 38 on this diagram.
http://www.morrisminorspareparts.co.uk/ ... m?start=20

[mogbob]

Adjustment is made "at " No 38 but this remains " in situ ". It will be No 39 on your diagram ,the piston push rod that " moves "
backwards to the yoke to produce a greater gap / allowance for movement as the others have suggested.
Clean off all the old road dirt and rubbish off the thread, with a wire brush and rag , then oil it so that the rod can move easily.
Bob

[New Bloke]

Okay, I eventually found a 1/4 whitworth spanner (why, when Triumph are happy with AF) and have now adjusted the yoke out so I now have about 2" of play before I get resistance on the pedal. Just going to give it a test to see if it feels better. If you don't hear from me in an hour, come looking for me

[New Bloke]

Well like the curate's egg it was good in parts. I decided to pop down to my football club and pick up my car that I left there last night (after a few too many sherbets). So with Daughter as passenger off we popped. The brakes didn't stick on and showed no desire to stick on, however while pulling into the car park the engine stopped and refused to restart. We popped into the bar for a swift half but still no joy after 15 minutes. So brakes seem fine, but engine still bloody dreadful.

[kennatt]

give the petrol pump a tap with a light hammer /report result

[oliver90owner]

Even easier is to listen for the fuel pump tick at turn on, before jumping to conclusions. Diagnose as relevant. Spark at plugs? Fuel in tank, etc, etc.

[New Bloke]

Cheers Kennat and Oliver,

The fuel pump is ticking, it is a very specific distance, I drove to the football club and it cut out as I entered the club car park. Two hours later we went to pick it up and it started fine but cut out coming back onto my drive, so it seems happy with 2.8 miles but won't consider 2.9.

I didn't check on anything at the time as it was chucking it down but I will drive halfway to the club and home again once I have sorted out the next problem. (stupidly tried to remove the thermostat housing today and now have one broken stud, one bent housing that appears to be welded to the head and not one once of patients left with this $%^&*ing car).......

[panky]

Could be petrol pump pulling a vacuum on the tank. When you get the thermostat fixed try a run and if it conks out again take the fuel filler cap off and listen for it drawing in air as you remove the cap. If it does then swap the filler cap for a vented one.

[kennatt]

well,sadly after the passing of bmc eccoss,I can say with him shouting down from that great scrapyard above,...........that I suspect the coil(although it never is ) heating up and failing. Try swapping a known good coil.As for your housing problem......join the club of many who have had the same problem,do a search for the list of posting where soulutions are discussed.

[New Bloke]

Thanks both,

Yeah, did that already and have ordered a new housing as this one is bent to buggery. Pretty sure it's the vacuum thing as before I left I replaced the two jubilee clips on the petrol tank input pipe so where there was a gap before, now there aint. I guess I should get a vented one just to make sure although I ordered a new one a couple of weeks ago but it doesn't seem vented.

Thanks again

Tim

[SteveClem]

Just drill a little hole in it.

[New Bloke]

Oh right, easy as that.

Ta