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I know they all leak, but still....
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 4:55 pm
by dermot
I know all minors leak a bit. I have a 4dr and it is pouring here (N ireland). When I got home 3 doors had leaked a little. The water seems to be gathering along the door tops (stainless steel part) and then slowly dripping into the car. The front doors at least fit fairly well and have new push on type seals. The car is ok when driving. Any tips would be appreciated.
doors
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:22 pm
by Willie
Well, first check that the doors are adjusted on their hinges so that
when closed they are flush with the body. If it is the trailing edges
of the doors which still stick out when the doors are closed then
you can adjust the latch plates inwards so that the doors have to
go further in to shut properly. When you have the doors closing
correctly you should insert a piece of card(kellogs packet) between
the door rubber seal and the door opening and then shut the door
fully. If you move the card around the door edge (on the inside)
you will be able to feel instantly where there is a gap because of the
lack of friction. To correct these gaps you will have to remove
the door rubber sealing moulding and bend the flange on which it
sits. I find that good Molegrips do a good job on these flanges but
you would be well advised to paint then afterwards(or coat with
Waxoyl).
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:31 pm
by dermot
This might seem a stupid question, but are the seals themselves capable of keeping the water out. By this I mean, how tight a fit do they need to be before they are watertight. Do you wan't the door to feel springy against the seal. Thanks for your reply Willie BTW

seals
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:44 pm
by Willie
DERMOT....The seals should be tight enough to cause drag on the
card i.e. the rubber should be slightly compressed THE WHOLE WAY ROUNDwhen the door is closed. It is not uncommon to have up
to 3/8" gaps on doors which gives rise to leaks,draughts, and noise.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:51 pm
by jonathon
To adjust the window frame to door seal, remove the three blanking grommets on the back edge of the door. Loosen off the three 7/16 bolts but do not remove. the frame can now be moved either inward or outward to achieve the correct fit re- tighten re- fit the grommets. You need to squash the rubber door seal enough to make a seal which will repel water. or as you say 'feel springy'.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:08 pm
by dermot
brilliant. I,ve just mopped up for the night. I,m off work for the easter holidays at the end of the week and I'll get on to it then. Thanks again.
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:38 am
by Pyoor_Kate
Uh, they don't *all* leak!
It took a while, and you do have *slam* the passenger door (wish I'd realised that I'd've been better off reparing the door I'd got than getting a better second hand door all those years ago - it's off another car and doesn't fit very well) - but unless there's horizontal rain sort of front->back then my minor stays dry inside. Or at least, she seems to....
Mostly it was the rear window letting water in on Rebecca, really. A new window seal, and then some sealant, and she was/is fine.
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 6:01 pm
by dermot
Thanks Kate, you've given me hope. mine definitely leaks though!
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 6:38 pm
by Chris Morley
Uh, they don't *all* leak!
Mine doesn't either

(unless I'm using a high pressure jet wash).
The rain gutter is spot welded to the roofskin and the filler between the spot welds can crack and let water drip onto the top of the door frames. It should be easily possible to test that this is watertight.
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:08 am
by ColinP
Quote:
Uh, they don't *all* leak!
Mine doesn't either
Nor mine - until I oen the door then all the water drips from the top of the door onto my lap. I've given up wearing light coloured trousers...
("My moggie leaked on me" doesn't sound too convincing to some people. And I still haven't achieved that "Darcy" effect - P&P)
Colin