Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi, 2 questions perhaps someone can help with please. I have discovered a small leak in my radiator and I am under a bit of time pressure due to work and an impending long trip. I am getting/ordering new rad tomorrow and have limited time (and expertise) to remove the old one and replace it. Any tips gratefully received....

(1) Simple step by step guide to replacing radiator.
(2) Is it advisable to replace hoses at same time - they look OK

Oh and finally "K Seal" has been highly recommended to me - do you think I would be safe to use that to solve the problem temporarily? I am worried about it developing into a much bigger problem far from home and would rather replace the rad to be sure, but I may not have time....

Thanks Marion

Release the hoses from the rad (be sure to dispose of the old coolant 'responsibly' as they say on Wheeler Dealers) ..... Undo 4 screws - 2 each side of the rad (1/4 Whit if I remember correctly) and pull....... Push new rad down into place and refit the screws and hoses. Up to you if you fit new hoses - definitely do NOT use so called Kevlar hoses.... If the hoses look good - I would reuse them if not hard and cracked -there is no guarantee that any new hoses these days are to a good standard. I always carried spare hoses and hose clips - and a can of 'leak sealer' in my spares kit - but never had to use them. Refill with new anti-freeze and water. Job done !

As above, the only things to add are (a) make sure that the engine is cool before you try to remove the rad, and (b) refitting is a reverse of removal. Make sure that you use good old fashioned Bluecol antifreeze, not the modern green / orange fluids.

I have used K Seal with good results about 4 years ago on my round heater matrix, still going strong.

All done and very straightforward. I am thinking that I should run the engine with the rad cap off for a few minutes to get rid of any airlocks....or is that silly?

Thanks for your help

That's sensible - run it at least until the thermostat opens (you'll feel the top of the radiator suddenly get hot when it does, assuming it's working OK). Also check the heater is hot (or at least as hot as it used to get beforehand!) - if it has an airlock in it, which is unlikely if you didn't drain it, revving the engine a bit normally pushes any airlocks out. You'll then see whether you need to top the radiator up at all before putting the cap back on.

The good news, the new rad is good and working. The bad news is that I've discovered another much smaller leak from the heater isolator tap / valve.

After tightening the nuts that secure it to the head - they both went a 1/4 turn at least so a bit slack - there is still a very small dribble from the top of the tap. I have hand tightened the tap wheel but daren't do too much in case it strips and gets much worse.

I reckon a long trip with this sort of leak would be OK, provided I check the level in the rad regularly and top up when necessary. What do you think?

A new one is on order but it won't arrive in time now. There was definitely a radiator leak before so we are a little bit better off

Your heater tap if of the old type may have a gland nut under the tap wheel.
Just give that gland nut a nip up and you may cure the problem.
Phil

Well done -an easy job to change the rad. I wouldn't worry too much about the tap - as Phil says if it has a gland nip it down very slightly.