Morris Minor Owners Club

I came across something today that I'd not given a second thought to before, when fitting the shoe springs, which one of the two holes that are close together do you use? I've always used the one nearer the end of the shoe so to speak, but today for the first time this position allows the springs to rub the wheel cylinders, whereas using the other hole it clears but the spring is more stretched. I'm using new springs, pattern parts though. Has anyone got any thoughts on this?

LES, I have always used one near and one far hole even with new
springs to ensure a strong shoe return. It is important that
the 'short' coil end of each spring is fitted at the ADJUSTER end
to avoid fouling the piston.

I think you are supposed to use the nearest two if the spring is still firm on those. If not then move out until they are. Willie's method though is as good as any, but as long as you ensure a strong spring return it will be fine.

A bit of a late reply, but thanks for the input, I've put two solid days work into the pick-up. New front wheel cylinders, springs, new hoses, rack gaiters, track rod ends, grease up and service. All because of a sticking wheel cylinder! Once you start something and all that. Still I suppose it's better than waiting for a failure, and for the service this moggy gives me, well worth it! The bummer is after bleeding I've still got air, and as it's now dark and too late, will be going to brooklands moggyless!

Yeay - I also seem to remember you need to put the spring the right way round to avoid the interference with the cylinder.
I had the fron hub off the Raymobile at the weekend and noticed the springs were leaning heavily on the cylinder -I didn't worry to much as it's not like the brakes are working anyway

Ray, even with the springs the right way round I was getting them touching the cylinders, so had to resort to using the 'alternative' spring holes in the shoes, which gives better spring/cylinder clearance, but as mentioned in my first post, stretched the springs more.

Touching the cylinders is no problem -just make sure they don't touch the rotating hub ! To get a good brake 'balance' I had to use the far-away hole on one of my front shoes - otherwise the car always pulls slightly that way - by fitting just the one spring in the distant hole the balance is perfect !!

BMCECOSSE...I would suspect that the side where you have to use
the further hole has a wheel cylinder fault which is preventing normal
total retraction?? ( By that I mean that if it is not retracting properly
the friction will overheat the linings on one side causing the car to
veer to one side on braking).

Hmm - Just failed MOT on front brake balance - they wouldn't tell me which side was lower just repeated "they're out of balance"
I guess I'll check the cylinders and fit some new springs at the same time.

rayofleamington wrote:Hmm - Just failed MOT on front brake balance - they wouldn't tell me which side was lower.

Uh? Singularly unhelpful... Was Blind Les having a bad day? Surely if you're paying them to test the brakes, they're under some sort of obligation to tell you the results?

they're under some sort of obligation to tell you the results?

Yes, hence the "they're out of balance" comment being repeated at me
In the past they have not bothered to add yellow crayon to the corrosion points on the underside which is also 'singularly helpful', but in recent years they found their pack of crayons again.

They did spot the loose trunnion so at least they have some vague idea what they are doing, but Blind Les was in fine form and didn't fail any of the faulty front suspension rubbers, rear suspension rubbers or the rear shock link arm rubbers (and a few other things too!)

I think I'm going to have to stop work on other peoples cars for a little while - otherwise Evelyn won't be back on the road!