Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all if had the Morris acid dipped , and now I'm planning on replacing all the sill panels and floors . One side at a time . Before I cut one sill off , I think I should brace the car so it doesn't bend or fold under its own weight . I was thinking of welding box steel from one side to the other just above the sills on the inside of the B pillars , then weld one just Above the sill from the A pillar to B pillar then weld two cross beams diagally in the door gap , would this be anough do you think ? See pic !

Hopefully a pic[frame][/frame]

Yes bracing the shell is an exceptional idea and lots of 2x2 box is ideal for doing so. However just as important is ensuring that your door gaps are perfect before bracing the shell.

Rod

Yes good Idea , should I support the cross beam in the middle of the car as well ?

If the main part of the shell can not move or flex the only worry with the center cross member (for me) would be making sure it's in the right place in relation to the chassis rails.

Rod

You're overdoing it -and 2 X 2 is far too heavy. The main thing is to brace the door gaps and across the car between the door frame rear edges. Just don't be rough when rolling (or spitting?) it over. I think with a bare shell - a spit is probably better and less strain on the shell. But DON'T use the rear bumper mounts!

That's the thing , I don't have a spit , the only option for me is to use axle stands or tip it on its side after I've brased it ,also il measure gaps after I've got the door fitting , making sure I diagonally measure the door shuts to make sure ,after I've cut the sill off that the shell doesn't twist

This is what I did . 30mm square box . 25 would be ok , but I got the 30 cheap . The one from the center to the back isn't really doing anything , but I had a bit left over .I rolled mine on a roller. Doing it again I would leave the doors on so you can set the sills to the right hight in relation to the door bottom.