Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,
Can anyone tell me how to remove the rear axle from my 2 door, In order would be great so that I may clean up the axel and paint It and put all new poly bushes In and brackets, Step by step would be great and any tools I may need, I have axle stands and trolley jack already.

Regards
Anthony

Download the FREE Workshop Manual from Google.....we are not allowed to tell you exactly - but Morris Minor Workshop Manual is worth a try.... Basically -support the car very very securely - remove the springs and the prop shaft and disconnect the brake pipes and cables and the dampers. It's quite heavy.... Take care.

Also get a restoration manual. Great for reading material for a 1st time moggie owner. Tho you soon get the hang of them. Everything you take off. Bag and label it up. Even if your planning on replacing tho bits.

Steve

I've got a copy of the Haynes restoration manual and the normal Haynes manual already

Guys any special tools needed ?

bmcecosse wrote:Download the FREE Workshop Manual from Google.....we are not allowed to tell you exactly - but Morris Minor Workshop Manual is worth a try.... Basically -support the car very very securely - remove the springs and the prop shaft and disconnect the brake pipes and cables and the dampers. It's quite heavy.... Take care.

Is it the dolphnpructions manual that I'm looking for ?

No special tools needed but the nuts and bolts arnt metric. Iv got the haynes restoration manual and an old bmc workshop manual. Be ready for rust fittings those.

bmcecosse wrote:Download the FREE Workshop Manual from Google.....we are not allowed to tell you exactly - but Morris Minor Workshop Manual is worth a try.... Basically -support the car very very securely - remove the springs and the prop shaft and disconnect the brake pipes and cables and the dampers. It's quite heavy.... Take care.

It's not quite heavy - its bl**dy heavy, so make sure you've got supports under it as you drop it. Lots of proper release oil (not WD40) soaked in before you start. Be prepared to carefully cut spring hanger bolts if necessary, but practice a lot with your angle grinder on scrap if you haven't had it long - lying on your back with it above you isn't the time to find that it can kick back sharply! Gloves, goggles face mask all times (I've a loyalty card at our A&E eye injury department ). Best to remove fuel tank if you do start grinding in that area.

Mark Wilson wrote:

bmcecosse wrote:Download the FREE Workshop Manual from Google.....we are not allowed to tell you exactly - but Morris Minor Workshop Manual is worth a try.... Basically -support the car very very securely - remove the springs and the prop shaft and disconnect the brake pipes and cables and the dampers. It's quite heavy.... Take care.

It's not quite heavy - its bl**dy heavy, so make sure you've got supports under it as you drop it. Lots of proper release oil (not WD40) soaked in before you start. Be prepared to carefully cut spring hanger bolts if necessary, but practice a lot with your angle grinder on scrap if you haven't had it long - lying on your back with it above you isn't the time to find that it can kick back sharply! Gloves, goggles face mask all times (I've a loyalty card at our A&E eye injury department ). Best to remove fuel tank if you do start grinding in that area.

Fuel tank is already out as I had it shot blasted came up a treat will post picture when I have the time ,no springer bolts on the back as mate has used a u bolt to hold it together !!!.

What release oil then if not wd40

U-bolts are what it should have. Plus gas or similar penetrating oils are better than wd40.

You want the 'Morris Minor Workshop Manual' from Google - it's a big PDF - just save it -and then print off pages as you need them to do a job. There will be a likely mixture of A/F and Whit nuts and bolts - depending what has been renewed in the past.. There should be NOTHING metric - so don't be tempted to 'make do' with metric tools..

cplnobbie wrote:Guys any special tools needed ?

Yes a lot of patience to try getting the small nuts n blots out for the leaf spring front eye bolt plate !!!!!

67-2door wrote:U-bolts are what it should have. Plus gas or similar penetrating oils are better than wd40.

yes but not like this, this Is how its secured[frame][/frame]

When you order your new bushes (polybush) add on the shackle pins and nuts as they're only cheap.

Dear god.......never seen anything like that before - have to wonder what the rest of the car is like !

MrIan wrote:When you order your new bushes (polybush) add on the shackle pins and nuts as they're only cheap.

I've got the whole lot all new including the bump stops so complete refurb of rear suspension

bmcecosse wrote:Dear god.......never seen anything like that before - have to wonder what the rest of the car is like !

Great isn't It lol now you know how the rest was done .......

Please take pictures - we should start a 'Rogues Gallery' ......Hopefully it was just a temporary deal to move the car around - and not to be run on the road......

bmcecosse wrote:Please take pictures - we should start a 'Rogues Gallery' ......Hopefully it was just a temporary deal to move the car around - and not to be run on the road......

Depends how much he liked me doesn't lol

Will take pictures as I start maybe not this week as back to work Fri-Mon

was thinking of disconnecting the prop shaft at the rear then supporting the axle in the middle on my trolley jack and two axle stands then undoing those great bolts front and back then lowering on the jack with the wheels still attached, and of course having two axle stands still hold the car up from the back, Thoughts please ......

Yes - you can do that - if you can get the springs released at the front mounts - and dampers/brake pipe/brake cables. Then wheel it out with springs attached. Probably the easiest way - IF the front mounts release without too much trouble. May need angle grinding on the bolts.....