Page 1 of 1

Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 10:32 am
by Chazbee
I have a 1968 convertible. Should the kick plates be fastened with self tappers along the upper edge as well as the bolts at the bottom? If so where exactly should they go and how many?

Re: Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 11:44 am
by ManyMinors
They should be secured by self tappers at the top - three I think - which screw into the top of the boxing panel. The original holes are probably present in the boxing panel unless that has all been replaced?

Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 3:29 pm
by Chazbee
The reason I asked was because the new stainless covers I've bought don't have the holes for the self tappers!

Re: Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 4:13 pm
by greendefender123
You could always try it without the screws. Wont make to much difference but might rattle. Tho its not more work to put screws in afterwards.

Re: Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 5:06 pm
by ManyMinors
It shouldn't "rattle" because the door should shut tight against it. If you don't put the screws in then the door has to move the kick plate every time you shut the door which adds a little strain to everything else. So, it is better to screw it to the boxing panel as would have been done originally. The rubber strip near the bottom of the door should create a seal against the kick plate.

Re: Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 2:35 pm
by midget
Oh dear, that's a surprise(to me), I thought they were supposed to be body colour, in fact I've just fitted a new one and sprayed it this morning! They were silver before, but rotten on bottom edge.
Not arguing, but is this correct please?

Re: Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 3:31 pm
by taupe
Yes silver

Re: Sill kick plate fixing

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 7:19 pm
by bmcecosse
It's your car - paint the purple if you like !