Morris Minor Owners Club

I need some advice please!

I've got the gearbox cover and the master cylinder cover off and would like to prevent rust increasing down in the chassis legs. They're not too bad at the moment but I don't want them to get worse but they're the very devil to get into, so I wonder if anyone can advise me of a sprayable de-rusting fluid. Perhaps in a "rattle can"? Or perhaps I might use my compressor to spray in there; applying by brushing looks impractical; it would be too easy to miss bits.

Hammerite do a "Rust Remover Dip" that is diluted one part of fluid to nine parts water and which is meant for immersion of rusted items, so I wonder if this might be sprayed. But then drying it off will be a problem.

Your thoughts please. Regards, MikeN.

Just use Waxoyl. I drilled a couple of holes into the legs in the engine bay - sprayed it in and then put plugs in the holes. Thin it 10% with white spirit, and pre-heat it in a bucket of boiling water.

As you have a compressor, here is a good priced injection gun, https://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-362369/sea ... r-kit.html
all you need is the waxoil. As Roy says a couple of well placed holes make injecting it easier.

Hmmm,
Do think then that the rust doesn't need inhibiting first then, Roy?
And thanks Richard for that link. (I've already got the Waxoil to follow the de-rusting!)

Regard, MikeN.

This is great stuff, Ive used it on a couple of cars after a friend recommended it. Easy to apply in big aerosols with an extension probe. No mess filling a gun! One can should be enough for both chassis legs, I used 3 to do a whole car.

http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50

I used Bilt Hamber too as I don't have a compressor. Bit dearer at £35 for 2 which did inside all hollow sections. With this or waxoyl I wouldn't worry about rust inhibitors as well. If you are spraying inside a channel, insert 1" then spray as far as lance will go (not like me, I started from farthest away and withdrew lance until it came out and sprayed me! Obvious, I know).

It seems the Waxoyl contains phosphoric acid - to neutralise the 'rust' - not sure if that applies to the Hammer stuff... If in doubt - fill a domestic cleaner squirt bottle with 'rust killer' - and spray that around first.

Thanks for all your replies, gentlemen. Being rich, I'll give the Bilt Hamber stuff ago and report on it.
Thanks once again, MikeN.

Well friends, this the Bilt-Hamber product "Dynax S50".[frame][/frame]

These two cans arrived one day after ordering on-line and cost at total of £35.85; they were very well packed. A 60cm (23 inch) hose was supplied with slots at it's end to provide sideways sprays to coat enclosed spaces. Each can has a quoted volume of 750cc marked on it and has an actual volume of about 890cc. I suppose the difference is for the propellant gas. An bare unused can weighs 683g (i.e. without cap or button spray).

With the floor covering over the gearbox and master cylinder removed the chassis legs run forward for about 33/34 inches (i.e. 84/87 cms. And the right leg seems longer!) In addition, there is the rearward run of each leg (which I'd forgotten) of 16 inches (40cms).

The instructions recommend you warm the cans to around 15C for 24 hrs before use. That done, I attached the spray tube to a can inserted the tube to end of each of the rearward chassis runs, pressed the button and slowly withdrew the tube along the run. Then the tube was placed as far as it would go into the forward runs and the process repeated. The view up the left hand forward run is here.[frame][/frame]

The result is quite good but rather patchy in coverage. When its spraying, the spray itself inhibits your sight of what's going on, so it's difficult to guide it to get better coverage. That said, Bilt-Hamber state that one should aim for only 50 micron as a dry film thickness which in practice is almost transparent and so difficult to judge. But clearly I've got some areas over done where its much thicker which therefore suggests a wastage.

Finally, because the supplied hose cannot reach the ends of the forwards chassis legs I'll need to drill a hole in the end of each leg and repeat the process through the holes. These holes will need bungs, but before I start does anyone know a source of cheap bungs for, say, quarter inch/6mm holes? The ebay stuff seems pricey to me.

And finally, finally, Mr McCullough seems right, one can should do both legs completely. I'll report back, regards, MikeN.

Mike, you may find a hole already there, a few inches behind the engine mounting, as per this new panel

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... cts_id=577

The probe should fit into this ok.

I also added a couple to the front crossmember when I was at the last car.[frame][/frame]

I just got some free plug samples over the years from various sources. But does the hammer stuff have any 'rust killer' in it - as does Waxoyl ?? Or is it just a waxy/bitumen sealer ? Did they supply you with a Coshh Safety Data Sheet ? They don't appear to have them on their website which is most unusual.......