Morris Minor Owners Club

my clutch pedal was „hanging,“ means it does not come fully back to the possible up position. But it worked so far.
I removed the mechanical parts and changed them. Found out that the rubber bush on the chassis leg side was fully damaged. Changed it to a poly one and build all together again with new parts.
it seems to be fixed but i went into the same problem.
When i fasten the nut of the rot so that the pedal is in the up position, the clutch contacts near the upper pedal position. Tried to go back a little, to move the contact point a bit down. The effect was that die pedal goes down again and does not come fully up. I can push it up by hand but after operating it, it still stays a lower position. The spring is new, but it seems that the problem is somewhere at clutch fork. I can pull it back by hand but after operating it does not come back as should.
The clutch worked now but i decided to fix this problem.
Has someone a hint for me what i made wrong or how to fix this? Or is it quite normal that the clutch pedal does not come to the max up position?

I usually find that a clutch pedal that stays down is due to the pedal sticking where it passes through the brake pedal.

A good soaking in penetrating oil and working the clutch pedal up and down while holding the brake up will often get it working again. The fix is a new bush in the brake pedal.

If you want to check quickly if this is the problem disconnect the clutch operating rod so that the pedal is free and see if it moves nice and smoothly.

I'd do this first before starting to worry about worn clutches and sticky splines etc ...

Thanks for your comment.
The clutch pedal moved up and down the whole way freely when linkage was removed

The retraction of the clutch pedal is controlled by the spring that goes between the end of the clutch yoke and the rear engine plate.
Have you fitted the right spring - Pt No: AAA1628 (MOSS).
The spring is quite strong and unless the pedal/linkage is seized should pull the pedal back to its normal rest position, that is with the pad (located on the pedal) hard up against the underside of the floor.
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... anism.html
Phil

thanks Phil for your comment.
now i´m fully confused.
took a look in your link and found two springs for the clutch operating system.
one called "spring clutch fork" (this one is installed) and another called spring pedal return witch i only find here and not in any workshop manual i have or on any other suppliers site in the clutch section.
i installed this one
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... cts_id=181
between the end of the clutch fork (the little hole) and the rear engine plate
Joachim

It must return to contact the underside of the floor. Perhaps the new linkages you have fitted are too tight - or out of alignment? I don't recall two springs either - just the one from the fork to the backplate. Try some oil on the links - and some on the pedal shaft too.

On Phil's link:

It's spring 77 that should pull the clutch fork back onto nut 66.

this should then pull through the rod and linkages to pull the pedal up until the pad 15 is against the underside of the floor.

If everything outside the bellhousing is free you should be able to grab the threaded end of the rod 65 and pull the pedal up into position.

thanks to all of you, for your comments.
Will test your advise on next day without rain...
Joachim

There is only one clutch pedal return spring fitted but there are different clutch pedal return springs dependent upon the car.
If you read the MOSS link you will see the applications with the respective part number.
The part number COM130 as quoted in your link above is the correct clutch pedal return spring for 1098cc models from MAS5, MA2S5, MAT5 MAW5 990290.
Clutch pedal return spring Pt No: COM129 (AAA531) is suitable for the 803cc and 948cc models.
Phil

took all part apart again today. Put them together again and lubricated the moving points. Works fine now.
Once again thank you all for your tips and hints, i am happy got that part fixed now
Joachim

Good that it all works well again.

For the record, there are two springs in the Diagramme and having completed my LHD conversion ( Joachim, Du wolltest das auch machen!!) and been similarly confused. The one returns the clutch fork and the other does the brake pedal which is enclosed inside the Chassis rail - thus it cannot be easily seen from the outside.

Different spring (Pt No: AAA599 (MOSS)) to the two clutch pedal return springs mentioned above and is featured in a different parts diagram.

Item No: 27 in the link below.

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... ulics.html

Ah yes I do see - am wrong again!

I do not remember fitting two myself....must go and have a look tomorrow to see if I really did fit a pedal return spring as well as that for the clutch fork, which is most definately in place.

Just to clarify - there is only one clutch pedal return spring and that is fitted between the clutch fork and the engine back plate..
Only one of the two springs mentioned above is used and which one is dependent upon what car/size of clutch fitted.

I installed only one spring between clutch fork and back plate of the engine.
And as i now found out its the wrong spring. (blame on me, and thanks Declan for the tip checking the engine id) got a 948 engine instead of a 1098. But the spring for the 1098er engine works fine. But does not bring back the lost power
The main thing, i guess, was lubricating the ball bearing on the gearbox side.
@Nickol, all works fine with my RHD, at first i was thinking about a change to LHD. But liked your thread about the change. I always like reading about problems i could run into.
Its a never ending learning process.....

I doubt there is a huge difference between the springs.

the possibly a bit stronger spring trains the muscles in the left leg ;-)