Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,

First question - how can I improve my rather lacklustre wiper blades. Very good at moving water around not very good at cleaning screen. I have 1968 moggy with the silver coloured arms. The motor is working fine, its the force of contact with the blades on the screen that is problem.

Second question - how do I stop the exhaust blowing at the manifold join, I have taken off cleaned and used holts gum around the joint with some but not complete success. Any ideas?

Regards

Rob

Discussed many times - the silver/chrome arms and blades look nice but are often hopeless at moving water. The black ones generally work better. And/or you can use RainX on the screen which helps greatly - but needs regular re-treatment. The exhaust - is the manifold end damaged or coated in baked on 'gum' ? Is the flange on the pipe ok or has it become distorted? Clean and reshape. Then loosen all the support hangers and jack the exhaust up into place with just a thin wipe of exhaust 'paste' - and clamp it all up with a good clamp. Don't overtighten - it just distorts the pipe... You can add an extra support to the backplate - use the search facility to find the pictures. And of course - retighten the two hangers.

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I find that these blades work well on my 68 Traveller

Here is the thread with Declan's modified exhaust bracket, http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... aust+clamp
I have had the same problems as you and made a similar one to hold the down pipe more securely. It the speed humps and the general state of the roads that make the exhaust swing about causing it to come loose at the manifold, it becomes a long lever!
As for the wipers, I use rain repellent and it does help. Just make sure the screen is clean before you apply it.
Halfords used to sell a two part repellent and screen cleaner but not anymore. The cleaner had the same consistency as TCut, and you applied it with a wet cloth. I have cleaned the screen with TCut on a wet cloth and it removes all the grime, then apply the rain repellent. Just keep the TCut away from the rubber as it will stain it.
Also last year when I used a claybar on the paintwork, I did the glass too and was surprised how much rubbishy it lifted from the glass.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/ ... -clay-bar/

If you don't want a fancy clamp then here is what I did:


Jack up pipe until flange meets manifold in correct position.
Wrap a couple of turns of aluminium exhaust bandage round the join.
Refit the clamp and tighten before letting off and removing the jack.

I did smear a bit of exhaust paste round the joint before fitting but it was probably not necessary given the bandage sealed the join.......

The bandage helps stop the flange slipping in the clamp. I kept having the exhaust slip and the pipe bump against the engine compartment floor but since doing the above, all has been fine for the last 18 months

Others fit a ring of copper wire between manifold and pipe flare (crushes up when tightening together) - and a GOOD clamp helps of course. Someone recently posted up a thread pointing out that some clamps have a .right way up' to be fitted - to account of the different thicknesses of manifold and pipe.

myoldjalopy wrote:If you don't want a fancy clamp then here is what I did:


Jack up pipe until flange meets manifold in correct position.
Wrap a couple of turns of aluminium exhaust bandage round the join.
Refit the clamp and tighten before letting off and removing the jack.

I did smear a bit of exhaust paste round the joint before fitting but it was probably not necessary given the bandage sealed the join.......

The bandage helps stop the flange slipping in the clamp. I kept having the exhaust slip and the pipe bump against the engine compartment floor but since doing the above, all has been fine for the last 18 months

Read elsewhere that the thick gunk used to seal the rope around the door of a log burner works well using this technique.
I've been putting off doing my little exhaust blow until the weather improved. Might have an experiment now the sun is out.

You really shouldn't need anything if the manifold and pipe flange are in good condition.

They look fine. Clamp is good too. A very small blow just discernible to the hand...and obvious on certain gear changes.

the silver/chrome arms and blades look nice but are often hopeless at moving water. The black ones generally work better

Can someone please enlighten me on the black wipers. I have just put nice new stainless steel wiper blades on, but they are doing a dismal job of clearing the screen. The black ones might work better for me if I can find out which ones to buy and from where...

I have the parallel (post '63) wipers, if that makes a difference.

Don

Used to be branded TEX and so on - but who knows now.......

There is also a RainX screen washer additive - in theory reapplying the stuff when you clean it.

I had problems getting the exhaust manifold joint sealed too, my setup is the bottom half of a 1.5" cast manifold, the 1.5" downpipe from David Manners and a Maniflow system behind that. The exhaust bandage technique lasted about 500 miles, getting a hammer out and knocking the pipe perfectly into shape worked better. I plan to add a third strap just in front of the heatshield under the passenger seat to lighten the load on the join, too.

Bettre to put that extra support from the bellhousing so it supports the pipe at the manifold. The rest of the system needs to be able to move with the engine - so best you can do is to make sure it is well secured to the engine.

i got a cast iron clamp from esm well worth the money and no need for exhaust paste brilliant .

I have been asked to show a drawing of the exhaust steady that I cobbled together some years back.
Here it is.

Regards
Declan[frame][/frame]

dalebrignall wrote:i got a cast iron clamp from esm well worth the money and no need for exhaust paste brilliant .

FYI it is the cast steel clamp you want. I agree with Dale, they're brilliant, although I admit I did use paste to be sure.

And put it on right way up.....

[quote="Declan_Burns"]I have been asked to show a drawing of the exhaust steady that I cobbled together some years back.
Here it is.

A Sopwith Triplane in the Corner of the drawing - very nice

Nickol wrote:

Declan_Burns wrote:I have been asked to show a drawing of the exhaust steady that I cobbled together some years back.
Here it is.

A Sopwith Triplane in the Corner of the drawing - very nice

Nikol,
I have two of them still in my garage-1/4 Scale and 1/6 scale. The small one hangs on the ceiling amongst a load of others eg Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter, Avro 504K, Antoinette, Grade Eindecker etc etc.
And five De Havillands and a Spitfire in the cellar!
All mothballed for the last 17 years.

Regards
Declan

Great thread really interesting ideas.
I went down route of new clamp from ESM - fab, works really well as dale and bidz have found. Did cheat a bit used a bit of gun gum, just to be really sure.
I found replacing the exhaust support straps helped as well, time will tell! The exhaust support that Declan looks pretty cool, may try this at a later date if run into problems.

Cheers

Rob