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Door Key Barrels
Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:21 pm
by woo
Having just replaced the Ignition key Barrel in my car, I want to see if I can change the Door key to match. Has anybody any experience of just changing the key barrel in the drivers door of a 2 door? To replace the ignition barrel you don't need to take the lock out. Is the door similar?
Thanks
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:07 pm
by Kevin
Well I would have done it the other way and got a lock to match the doors.
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:11 pm
by Matt
Well I would have done it the other way and got a lock to match the doors.
Thats far to cunning!
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:34 pm
by Alec
Hello Woo,
if you like you can modify the new ignition barrel to fit your door key. Remove the new barrel and fit the door key, there should be some flat pins projecting, simply file them down flush with the barrel and replace in the ignition switch. Your door key now works your ignition.
Alec
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:43 pm
by TerryG
thats not a very secure way of doing it, you should realy get new pins match the barrel up to the key, then again hot wiring a mog can be done in 5 secs so it doesnt realy matter that much
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 4:49 pm
by woo
Unfortunately I've had to do it this way.
I know that nothing I can do will stop a determined crook, but I want to make the car a bit more secure. I've fitted a battery isolator, but the door and ignition locks are so worn that any key (including the garage key) will turn them. The boot had a new lock fitted when I bought the car, so I needed to match to the boot lock. I have filed a pin down on the locking petrol cap to match that to the boot lock. I've done the ignition lock and now I need to do the door lock.
So, has anybody got any experience of changing door lock barrels?
Thanks
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:13 pm
by simmitc
It's easy but fiddly (if that makes sense). You might not want to bother though..... First remove the door lock. Ah ha! You'll find that that means removing the trim panel. That means removing the door pull, interior handle, and window winder. Also, to get the lock out, you need to remove the window frame - one or two nuts can be difficult to reach and rusted. When you've done all that you can disconnect the operating arm and fiddle the lock assembly out. Now find the retaining pin, push it out, and remove the barrel. "reassembly is a reversal of the above process" as they say. When fitting the barrel back make sure that the locking lever (if fitted) locates properaly along with a small spring that rotates the lock to the central position after turning the key. Allow a good few hours for what sounds as though it ought to be simple. Good luck.
Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 7:49 am
by Alec
Hello all,
as an aside but relevant to the security issue, I seem to remember that GPO vans etc had Yale type locks fitted.
Alec
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:59 am
by newagetraveller
Taking the key barrel out of the lock is easy compared with taking the lock out of the door.
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 12:37 pm
by woo
Taking the key barrel out of the lock is easy compared with taking the lock out of the door.
That's music to my ears. Any tips as to method?
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:47 pm
by newagetraveller
In vague general terms if you were taking the door apart the lock/handle would be the last thing to come out so:
On the inside of the door take off the handle, window winder, door pull and the big piece of trim that covers the inside of the door.
Take out the window assembly. The runners are that disappear into the door are bolted to the door inside in some barely accessible place and the front of the window assembly has one or maybe two bolts connected to it which disappear into the door at the top front of it. These are held on by bolt(s) which are inside, hard to get at and may be rusted up.
Then undo the screws and/or bolts that hold the lock/handle in place and take it out.
I think you should find the key barrel is held in place by a pin going through the lock.
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:14 pm
by samheath100
it only takes 5 seconds to hot wire a mog if u dont have an imboliser fitted!
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:59 pm
by bigginger
Yup, that's right, but the etiquette here is *not* to give any more details here, for some sort of securitie's sake.
Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 1:43 am
by woo
Samheath100
You are right of course. I have fitted a battery isolater which will help to confuse the more simple minded. My philosophy is that you can't stop your car being stolen or broken into. If they want it enough they'll trailer it away. If they can't open the door they'll use a brick through the window. All I'm trying to beat are the young kids or opportunists that might do something on the spur of the moment and give up if they can't get it right away. Anyone more professional than that will get the car whatever you do.
Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 1:52 am
by TerryG
I remmember reading in the local rag a few years ago a bloke had bought a low loader like the ones the council use for towing illegally parked cars, stuck brent council logos on the sides and went around lifting cars with parking tickets on them. Aparantly he had been getting away with it for months and only got caught when he tried lifting one from outside the police station!