Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,

I've just started having a look at the front suspension on my 1969 Morris Traveller and have come across this slight annoyance. I am experiencing conflicting opinions when it comes to this subject so a little light shed on the subject would be much appreciated. I have enclosed pictures of what I think (I hope!) is the damper arm pivot bolt connected to the damper arm. What would be the optimal torque settings or method to tightening up the 2 nuts either end of the damper arm pivot bolt (see pic) and the steering rack nut connecting to the king pin (again I'm not sure if this is the correct term).

Many thanks in advance,

Tom[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

The castellated nut should be really tight - and a split pin through. The other nut should be tightened 'reasonably' - not too tight or it will be crushing the poly bushes. I assume you have two in there - can only see one in the picture. And only tighten this with the weight of the car on the suspension ie Jack it up under the bottom suspension arm. Some advise 'white grease' on the bushes.

The correct name and taken from the Morris Minor BMC parts list is Pin - Pivot - Upper link Pt No: AAA 3653.
The pin currently can be supplied with 1/2" UNF threads or 1/2" BSF threads.
I prefer the 1/2" UNF pins as they seem to be produced to a better standard than the original BMC ones.
To tighten and set the castellated nut - tighten with a normal length spanner and then tighten the nut further just enough to allow the split pin to pass through the castellations. Finish of the split pin.
To tighten and set the non castellated nut - tighten with a normal spanner until tight and the washer bush retaining (Pt No: 21G4048) is against the step/shoulder of the pin and then knock over the locking tab (Pt No: ACA5277).
Washer 21G4048 should be done up tight against the step/shoulder and there should be no movement of the washer whether there are normal rubber or poly bushes fitted.
See BMC Wksp Manual section K13 for details.
A dab of red or white grease on the bushes I find beneficial.
There are no BMC torque settings for either nut to my knowledge but I am happy to be corrected. The BMC manual states that they should be tightened firmly.
The final tightening of the non castellated nut should be done when the car is off the jack and the suspension has settled into its normal working position.
To tighten and set the ball joint nut under the steering arm - just tighten with a normal length spanner until tight - with the castellated nut tighten until tight and then tighten the nut further just enough to allow the split pin to pass through the castellations.
Again I am not aware of any BMC torque settings for the track rod end nuts.
Phil

Do you have the correct washer in there - which as Phil says should bottom out before it crushes the bushes - but some poly bushes are a bit on the 'thick' side. Pretty sure that was a self locking nut (nyloc) on my car... A plain nut could possibly work loose.

Many thanks indeed for all your replies, I will set to work on that tomorrow. I do indeed have 2 polyurethane bushes either side (I was advised that these were better than the rubber ones, please correct if I'm wrong). I think I have the right washer, this being a restoration I cleaned up what was on previously and reassemble as before, the right hand side washer does bend over to "lock" the nut into place if thats the concern?

Once again thanks all,

Tom

The problem with fitting a nyloc nut to the bush retaining washer end of the pin is that the pin has two machined flats which hold the locking washer.
Those two flats will cut the nylock material away and the nylock nut becomes useless - so it is essential that the locking plate (Pt No: ACA5277) is used in that situation.
The other end of the pin (tapered end) could utilise a nylock nut as it only has the hole for the split pin but both UNF and BSF pins are supplied with a castellated nut and split pin.
I use the UNF threaded pins with a castellated nut/split pin at the tapered end and a plain nut and lock washer at the other.
Phil

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Re:- The lower pin in the top picture.
You can see the step/shoulder that the washer should but up against.
I would still tighten the washer retaining nut firmly against the step/shoulder though.
Poly bushes are much better than the much softer BMC rubber type as supplied as original equipment.
Phil

Thank you all again for the info, I will get to work on that after work and can proceed with confidence.

Cheers,

Tom

I don't see any sign of the lock-tab washer in that picture.

There is something there but it looks more like a shake proof or spring washer.
The locking tab washer must be used or there is a good chance that the nut will come loose.
Phil

Hi all,

Replacement went without a hitch so thank you all for the information, there was indeed a locking washer (sorry about the camera angle, you couldn't see it) so that's one step closer to getting the mog back on the road.

Cheers,
Tom

Well done!.