Morris Minor Owners Club

My Heater Rheostat, that has been kept going with switch cleaner, now needs a serious 'jiggle' to get it going.

The heater, the old round type' is fitted with the fresh air conversion kit (all mod cons.) Can someone tell me if the Rheostat can be removed without having to take out and strip down the entire heater?

Thanks.

Send a PM to mr A series as Rob recently sorted Lynda`s switch.

Hey, here I am. Yes, lynda's had the fresh-air convertion on it aswell.

You can remove the heater matrix from the clamping case in situe (after removeing the intire front parcel shelf), and then remove the clamping bars (like the springy bars that hold later dizzy caps on) which will allow the front cover to be removed exposing the fan and the rheostat,...
...but it is a pig to do it that way and extremly difficult without major knowledge of how the heater sits and fits together and being able to work and use tool in very very cramped conditions (not to mention rusted and painted-over conditions!). it is much easier to remove the two small screws at the top (on the lower dash lip), the three chunky screws on the bottom (that go into the gearbox tunnel) and remove the entire front parcel shelf. Remember to disconnect the power wires (bullet connectors - usually always pull away from the wires!) and water pipes (clips and pipes jammed and corroded on) before you try to remove it. Pull up the carpet and soundproofing around the passengers foot well and gearbox tunnel and slide the heater up slightly into the dashboard (up behind the speedo) and swing the fresh air tunnel out to the left into the passengers foot well and then gently pull the entire unit out of the car.
At this stage you can remove the heater matrix from the clamping case and then remove the clamping bars (like the springy bars that hold later dizzy caps on) which will allow the front cover to be removed exposing the fan and the rheostat. The knob is held on with what looks like a grub screw type arrangement - but it isn't a grub screw! It's a sprung plunger that needs depressing (like on gazeebo and awning pole joints) before you can slide the knob off (they usually break as the plastic becomes brittle and even the force of the little plunger is enough to rupture the knob and burst right through it!).

beware all of the usual rust water threats to your interiour and such like. Honestly the second way is much easier for the DIY-er, and it gives you a chance to give it a clean/de-cobwebbing/flush through/touch of paint while it's out.

Mr A.Series

Thanks for the exhaustive instructions regarding the best way to remove the heater. I'll have to gird up my loins and give it a go. Hopefully it wont prove too exhausting, "Remove the entire parcel shelf" sounds an innocuous pastime, but last time I tried it it tested my patience somewhat.

MrA.Series wrote: The knob is held on with what looks like a grub screw type arrangement - but it isn't a grub screw! It's a sprung plunger that needs depressing (like on gazeebo and awning pole joints) before you can slide the knob off (they usually break as the plastic becomes brittle and even the force of the little plunger is enough to rupture the knob and burst right through it!).

I've got a replacement one now Haven't got around to attaching it yet though as I was away last weekend, and it's just too cold!

Hehe, can you all tell what happeded to lyda's knob? ;)